Effects Of Fabrics With Different Grain Directions On Apperal Appearamce

Apperal appearance was affected not only by fabrics, but also by using methods. According to the requires of bias-cut garments, thin cotton-tabby fabrics of different specifications and graphic patterns were chosen to make apparel shape tests upon the same pattern. Four conclusions were got by discrepant compares to apparel appearance of different grain directions.1. Changing of grain directions of the same fabric made different effects on objective opinions and subjective opinions of apparel appearance. It could't affect apparel appearance by discrepant compares using paired-samples Wilcoxon signed rank test to analyze the significant difference of objective opinions of apparel appearance on different grain directions; while it affects apparel appearance by discrepant compares using paired-samples T test to analyze the significant difference of subjective opinions of apparel appearance on different grain directions. Apparel static and dynamic effects of true bias grain were significantly different with apparel appearance of the other grain directions. It showed that the effect of true bias grain was better than that of the other grain directions; apparel appearance of the grain between lengthwise grain and true bias grain was no significant difference. It showed that subjective opinions of apparel appearance were no significant difference that the grain of bias cut were chosen freely. The effects of fabric with different grain directions on apperal appearance were no relations with fabrics of different specifications and graphic patterns. 2. Apparel appearance of lengthwise grain was significantly different with that of the grain between lengthwise grain and true bias grain. It changed with fabrics of different specifications and graphic patterns. So grain directions and fabrics should be considered together in bias cut. Subjective opinions of apparel static and dynamic effects in 30°～60°such as check-board fabric were no significant difference with that in true bias grain. The same effect and saving fabric were got if true bias grain was replaced by 30°～60°.3. Changing of fabrics on the same grain direction affected apparel appearance by discrepant compares using paired-samples Wilcoxon signed rank test to analyze the significant difference of objective opinions of apparel appearance and by discrepant compares using paired-samples T test to analyze the significant difference of subjective opinions of apparel appearance. So fabrics should be rationally considered in bias cut.4. The effects of different fabrics on apperal appearance changed with grain directions. The grain directions of significant difference caused by fabrics were warp grain, weft grain and true bias grain; changing of fabrics could't affect apparel appearance in the grain directions between lengthwise grain and true bias grain, so the choise of fabrics and grain directions can be broadened.This paper was just a beginning to do research on effects of fabrics with different grain directions on apperal appearance. We hope that the results could provide some suggestions for the future in-depth study and could give some value for clothing area.