| Currently, the market and industry of brassiere have rapidly developed with the increase of people's attention. But now the theory of pattern design is not perfect and the existing methods can not be popularized. At the same time previous researches have mostly concentrated in the basic pattern design and rarely cared about the pattern correction because of influenced factors. Hence it is realistic to enterprises'production to study an easier, more practical and systemic method of pattern design and correction. This paper has adopted various methods to improve Bunka prototype, such as dart's transferring, remainder's gathering in draping and assistant experiment with the standard model form. These measures can supply accurate basis to pattern design and meet the requirement of brassiere's fitness. Method of basis pattern design has been found by analyzing the dimension of breast and the feature of brassiere and its parts. Then samples have been made, tried and evaluated. The standard of suitable ease that brassiere should adopt has been determined with statistic analysis. Concerning the flexible factors of material, experiments imitated by elastic bands have been made and the limited flexible utilization of hemline of brassiere that made of flexible material have been determined. Furthermore, by stitching various samples and measuring the concerned capabilities before and after experiment, this paper has analyzed the impact of the variety of parameters with material and stitching. Ultimately the specific regression equations have also been determined, which has offered the theoretical basis to pattern correction. At the last of this paper, the general rule of pattern grading of brassiere has been deduced according to the basic principle of pattern design and correction, thus the design of a series of patterns has been completed. |