Exploring 3D Garment Simulation as a Prototype Validation Tool for Costume Design

This research examines the potential of 3D garment simulation technology in the context of costume design and production, specifically as a prototype validation tool for costume designers and makers. Three-dimensional garment simulation, though still a relatively new technology, has potential to be a time and resource-saving device in the apparel industry. In the performing arts, where time and resources are often scarce, costume designers and makers often choose to fall back on familiar but time-intensive methods. This research asked costume designers and makers to consider whether the quality of their product and the efficiency of their process can be enhanced by introducing 3D garment visualization technology into the prototype validation phase of costume design. This research employed a qualitative approach in which costume designers and makers were asked to participate in and respond to "virtual fitting sessions." Research subjects were solicited from among professional costume designers who were asked to submit a costume sketch of a woman's dress that was made-to-order for a recent production. Patterns for these garments were also obtained, and these were scanned using the N-Scan Pattern Digitizing System that allowed the two dimensional pattern data to be used in Lectra Modaris to create three simulated fittings of the costume. Both the designer and maker for each costume were asked to participate in a Web-based interaction (via WebEx) in which they were able to view the 3D simulation and assess the experience of participating in a simulated fitting. At the same time experts in the field of costume design and production were interviewed to obtain information about the costume design process, and about the experts' awareness of the use of digital technology in costume design and production. Interview responses were used to create a preliminary framework describing the essential elements of the collaborative process of costume fitting and production. These elements were divided into early mid, and late stage design communication. Each of these stages was characterized by interactive fit and design decisions, and interactive design communication. The majority of participants felt that early stage design decisions could be accommodated with a virtual fitting. Participants were divided on the potential of virtual fitting to accommodate interactive fit and design decisions. This was due in part to limitations of the currently available software, but also in part to the lack of involvement from a key stakeholder in the process, the performer. All participants felt that virtual fittings could contribute in some way to interactive design communication, either at early or mid-stages of the design and production process. These results were used to revise the preliminary framework to show potential for incorporation of 3D apparel simulation technology into the costume design and production process. It is expected that this framework will benefit both costume designers and makers, as well as those involved in development and implementation of 3D apparel CAD software. Additional benefit may be found in applicability to the apparel design process, particularly in areas of mass customization and made to order garments.