| This work addresses the topic of factory printed textiles, called pagne, in Cote d'Ivoire. Factory textiles are of two main types, wax prints and roller prints, and were introduced to Cote d'Ivoire beginning in the late 19th century. Today pagne continues to be of importance both in terms of its status as a sought after commodity, and as a possession with potentially affective value, value that may embody social, national, and personal significance. In part one I present a descriptive analysis of factory textiles. I begin with a brief review of the history of merchants and textile trade in Cote d'Ivoire. I then discuss the production of factory printed textiles and the diverse sources for their design. Finally, I outline the contemporary status of factory textile manufacture and distribution in Cote d'Ivoire, focusing on the movement of pagne from factories, to wholesalers, to merchants of various levels.; In part two I explore Ivoirian attitudes towards factory textiles, emphasizing the consumption and assimilation of pagne by women. I discuss the naming of pagne motifs, and the relationship between names and so-called classic designs. I also look at Ivoirian notions of group and individual identity, as they are expressed through the possession and wearing of pagne. Finally, I consider the aesthetic of abundance, related to the projection of wealth, that influences the display of pagnes and that leads to the treasuring and concealing of them. As is suggested by the title of this work, issues of value are paramount to this discussion. Only by following the many implications of factory printed textiles as valued objects can an understanding of how and why they are valued be gained. |
