| Meiler or called as frontlet,browband,headband and hairhoop is a hood tied in the forehead.In general,it is decorated by embroideries or jewels.At the earliest,it could be traced back to “kui”(the tip of a hat)in the period of Shang and Zhou Dynasties.It was invented to restrain hairs for both men and women.The First Emperor of Qin inspected the coast,soldiers wore the frontlet on their head and wore a uniform to accept inspection.Then,this turned into the criterion for looks of armed forces.The Han Dynasty inherited the system of the Qin Dynasty.The frontlet was mainly used by soldiers and guards as the forehead decoration to distinguish from the military rank and corps,providing convenience for military management.It turned into the first dressing of military clothes.In the Tang Dynasty,with the economic development and intensification of national fusion,the female status was unprecedentedly rising,so a woman disguised as a man became a new social custom.The image that women wore the frontlet was common in murals from tombs in the Tang Dynasty.Starting from the Song Dynasty,“the frontlet” was favored by women in silk wadding,precious metal,marten and other textures or even different shapes.Therefore,it became an accessory with unique characteristic for ancient women.Meanwhile,it prevailed in the periods of Ming and Qing Dynasties.It even gradually became the dedicated garment accessory of women in the Qing Dynasty.In the Republic of China era,Meiler basically continued the pattern in the late Qing Dynasty and had wool,woolen,other new-type fabrics and glass ornaments.In early Republic of China,it was popular for women to cut hairs,so Meiler gradually retired from the stage of history.As an implement,Meiler became exclusive to women from the ornament for both men and women,gathering women's belief and creation wisdom for thousands of years.Hence,the systematic research on Meiler will be good for figuring out the scattered correlational studies in splashes.Also,to analyze the internal logic between Meiler evolution and social reform and explore the causes for evolvement of Meiler shapes will be contributed to inheriting the excellent creation thoughts in ancient times.Starting from clothing art,philosophy,history,aesthetics and artistic archaeology,the author in this paper studies the impacts of ancient creation thoughts on the aesthetic arts and craftsmanship of Meiler.To begin with,the author reads ancient books to sort out the ancient creation thoughts,combines with paintings,sculptures and archaeology to trace the historical source for Meiler,figures out the developmental context of Meiler,verifies Meiler evolution with the timeline,and summarizes the specific instructions of typical ancient creation thoughts on Meiler design production.Through Meiler evolution laws in different periods and transformation of users,the author summarizes the causes for the development and change of Meiler.Secondly,on the basis of inspecting Meiler model features,composition forms,decorative patterns,and color matching,the author summarizes the artistic features of Meiler as follows: the model stylization,pattern symbolism and color regionalism.Meiler has the diversified modeling.The composition is filled with perspectivity,adaptability and rhythmicity.The apparatus creation thoughts are concentrated on Meiler modeling as follows: the natural creation rules and aesthetic laws of combination.Meiler pattern manifestation is reflected in the concretization and abstraction.The organizational forms are composed of the individual or combinational patterns.The combinational mode reveals the pattern specification of contents and modeling and artistic creation of individual subjectivity.Meiler pattern symbolism elaborates from the extract metaphor,cognitive perspective,manifestation grade,and propitious moral and shows the aesthetic pursuit for unity of heaven and man.Then,by collecting the object color of the modern Meiler,the author uses XriteCi7800 color photometer to extract Meiler lining and embroidery thread color and utilizes the statistical cluster SCA algorithm to extract main color and conduct quantitative analysis of Meiler composition,gaining the color value of Meiler image cluster analysis in the south and north.With the Munsell color system,the author analyzes the regional difference of Meiler color between the south and north and draws a conclusion that the aesthetic difference caused by the geographic and cultural environment factors in the south and north is the source to result in the obvious differentiation of Meiler color between south and north.Meiler is affected by the traditional five-line and five-color view.The color selection and matching should observe: the single-color relative ratio,the multi-color relative ratio,the matching law between pure color and binary color,and matching law between binary colors.The beautifully colored Meiler and contrast harmoniously contain the color gene of Chinese nation.At the same time,Meiler technology is comprehended from the creation thoughts according to different materials.Such a technology is mainly composed of production technology and decoration craft.The production technology is completed by virtue of the traditional operation way,while the decoration craft includes the decorative skills and textures.By combining with the specific cases,the author analyzes the embroideries,inlay and freehand sketching in different Meilers.The insert and binding technology can stand out the creation wisdom of traditional women who act according to circumstances and materials.Meantime,the author selects Meiler in the Ruyi,boat and double leaf to do a restoration experiment and verifies the accuracy of the production technology.Meiler in the double leaf is folding and paving to find out the radian formed by the bulge distance through measurement.By combining with head data statistics,the author finds out the front and middle broken disposal,so that Meiler can fit for the head with the stronger adaption.This happens to have the same view with the ergonomics,showing folk women study the nature of things and create things suitably accumulated in their life.Finally,the author draws a conclusion that Meiler modeling observes the modeling rules of nature creation;Meiler pattern implies the abundant symbolic significance and shows the symbolic function,revealing the propitious pursuit for unity of heaven and man.The application law of the five-line and five-color view in Meiler color matching reveals the culture psychology of the national color.Meiler production stands out the aesthetic enlightenment of making the best use of everything,showing the thought guidance of making the best of objects,creating things suitably and acting according to circumstances.This conforms to the fine tradition of frugality and simplicity of Chinese nation.Based on Meiler object collected in the teaching hall of folk costumes at Jiangnan University,the author sorts out material objects and establishes the folk Meiler database.By virtue of the theoretical research achievements in philosophy,art theory,design,and statistics,the author uses the research method of historical data literature and material object confirmation to do the interdisciplinary research on Meiler.By sorting out Meiler evolution and transformation of users in different periods,the author restores the overall style and artistic charm of Meiler in the historical periods,analyzes the causes for Meiler evolution,and elaborates the development context of Meiler.By analyzing and studying Meiler modeling features,technology skills,decorative patterns,and color matching,the author summarizes the artistic features of Meiler and group aesthetic intention and constructs the logical framework of Meiler research under the ancient creation thought system guidance.By studying the “apparatus” of Meiler,the author shows the “principle” in the national creation thoughts,sees big things through small ones to provide a new perspective of studying Meiler from the creation thoughts,realizes the research process of analyzing Meiler from the creation thoughts,and provides a method reference and theoretical reference for studying the traditional garment accessories in the future.Meiler reveals people's aesthetic culture and group belief and contains the abundant national culture deposits.The small Meiler fully reveals the group creation wisdom of traditional women,their talents,and emotional expression for a good life.The author conducts the in-depth research on Meiler culture from the ancient creation thoughts,better comprehends and carries forward the traditional culture,and enriches Chinese design culture. |
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