| The function and comfort of modeling underwear is very important to people. The function of shaping underwear is connected with its structure design closely, and the structure design is based on the researching on body size and adaptability. This research is on bra. Through the comparative analysis on shaping effect of existing brand bra to two different age female groups, it pointed out the deficiency of existing bra. Based on above, the structure design of bra is adjusted and improved, and the comfort is discussed further.Firstly, the research is started with the designing of basic pattern of bra. The bodice prototype fitted to bra design is formed based on transformation of culture pattern. At the same time, it studied the breast dart on 75B body model and discussed the rationality of breast dart distribution, and it put forward the application of breast dart distribution in bra structure design. This part is provided for the adjustment and improvement of bra structure design later.Secondly, it investigated to existing bra and compared to the structure parameters of three main brand bra through actual measurement and analysis, and illustrated the main bra size distribution and main bra cup style in investigated area. Based on above, it analyzed and estimated on the wearing effect of three brand bra to aged 18-25 years old unmarried female and 26-35 years old married and have child female, and pointed out the deficiency of structure design of existing bra. It resulted in different breast shape of two different age female groups, but existing structure design of bra is not aimed at and distinguished to age, especially to young female, so lead to difference between bra cup shape and breast shape and the shaping effect is influenced. In addition, there are some deficiencies such as inadaptability and instability in body movement following and shaping keeping because of the effect of bra style and materials.Thirdly, through the actual measurement and compare to the breast shape of two age groups, it pointed out that the 26-35 years old married female is more plump in breast shape, but it have the tendency of droop meanwhile. So this age female group is more needed to adjust breast shape by wearing bra. For this reason, the research built the regression model of breast shape about the 26-35 years old married female, and through testing and verifying the existing breast mathematical model aimed at the 18-25 years old unmarried female, it found that the mathematical model is applicative to the 26-35 years old married female. So the dart value of the 26-35 years old married female is calculated on the basis of the mathematical model. Based on which, it designed and made eight different bra cup patterns through dart distribution method. After testing shaping effect of the eight patterns, the best bra to shaping is selected. Compared to the design of existing bra which relied on experience to a certain degree, this design is more scientific.Finally, it studied the pressure comfort and other comfort such as hot and damp comfort and contact comfort of bra. It mainly researched the pressure comfort from subjective estimate and objective estimate, and analyzed some factors influencing bra wearing comfort and the relationship between pressure feeling and pressure value of each measuring point, and discussed the comfort extent of pressure value of all points. Then it analyzed the bra wearing instability point of view bra structure, materials elasticity and force. It also studied the hot and damp comfort and contact comfort through subjective estimate. The measuring and estimating content is mainly included seven aspects, they are prick feeling, soft feeling, damp and hot feeling, clamminess feeling, stuffiness feeling, sticky feeling and total comfort feeling, and the seven aspects are mainly relationship with materials property. It indicated that movement is mainly affect damp and hot feeling, stuffiness feeling and sticky feeling of bra. |
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