| Discussed in this dissertation are the wave breaking and transformation on a slope, longshore currents. Flume experiments are carried out to observe and analyze wave breaking and transformation on the slope covered by sands with different diameters, also the wave height variation along the flume.The main results are as follows:1. Based on the wave energy equation, a numerical model is established to describe the wave breaking and transformation on a slope. Flume experiments data are used to verify the numerical model.2. Based on the numerical model and experiments data, an analysis and comparison has been given about the breaking point location and the wave height decay caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction.3. Advanced wave maker, data sampling devices and data processing system are utilized in the fume experiments with a slope covered by sands with different diameters, to facilitate the observation and research on the wave transformation and breaking, and the observation of the sand movement and suspension. Wave breaking types and relative parameters are discussed.4. Based on PLIC-VOF method, a 2D free surface numerical model is established and is verified by experiments data about its accuracy and effectiveness to simulate the complex free surface movement.5. Based on the 2D free surface numerical model and further analysis of the boundary condition, a 2D numerical wave flume is established and verified by theoretical and experimental results.6. Numerical results of controlling equations of longshore currents are compared with experiments data and verified. |
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