| The Yi ethnic group is the most populous and widely distributed ethnic minority in southwest China,one of the oldest ethnic groups in China,mainly distributed in Yunnan,Sichuan,Qian and Gui provinces(regions),mainly living in Chuxiong,Honghe,Bijie,Liupanshui,Anshun,Longlin,Napo and Liangshan,showing the distribution characteristics of large dispersion and small settlement.The Yi ancestors attached great importance to ancestor worship and ethnic development,and they standardized the Yi script,studied the astronomical calendar,recorded genealogy,formulated patriarchal systems,and organized folk activities,which reflected the long history and rich culture of the Yi people.For a long time,the ancestors of the Yi ethnic group have overcome difficulties and dangers to carry out the planting or collection of hemp,wool,cotton,silk,fireweed,spinning,weaving,clothing and other activities,these textile activities have gradually become an important part of the Yi culture,textile culture is also driven by social development to promote the inheritance and development of textile tools and textile technology.Based on the first-hand information obtained from field investigations,this paper takes the Yi tic-tac-toe looms in southwest China as the research object,and conducts research and analysis of weaving,design,art aesthetics,ethnology and folklore,so that people can understand and inherit the Yi textile culture with profound historical heritage from different perspectives.This paper mainly adopts the research method of literature analysis,fieldwork and interdisciplinary research,including the excavation and analysis of the historical traceability of Yi textile activities from the time vertical,and the comparative study of the material characterization of tic-tac-toe looms in different regions of the Yi ethnic group from the spatial horizon.At the same time,the shape and structure,weaving principle,textile raw materials and other material conditions of the Yi tic tac-toe loom,as well as the textile techniques and folk culture contained in it,are carefully investigated and recorded in detail,providing rich first-hand information for the protection and inheritance of the traditional textile culture of the Yi ethnic group.Focusing on the material culture and intangible culture expressed by the Yi tic-tac-toe loom,this paper conducts in-depth research on this basis,analyzes and summarizes the characteristics and causes of the material culture and intangible culture carried by the tictac-toe.The body of the article consists of four chapters,which can be divided into three parts.(1)The first part is the historical traceability of Yi textile activities,through consulting Yi ancient books,epic proverbs,local ethnography,oral legends and other written forms of documents,as well as collecting archaeological relics,murals,ethnic images and other physical and video materials unearthed in cultural sites,combing the development context of Yi traditional textile activities,analyzing the textile raw materials and textile tools used by the Yi in different historical periods,as well as the types of fabrics and the development of textile handicrafts formed in textile activities.This summarizes the phased characteristics of Yi textile activities,and summarizes the types of traditional Yi handmade fabrics and the textile raw materials and textile tools used.(2)The second part is the investigation of the current situation of Yi textile activities,including the third and fourth chapters of the article,which are respectively the material investigation of Yi tic-tac-toe looms and the textile technology of Yi tic-tac-toe looms.This paper takes the southwest region where Yi tic-tac-toe looms are distributed as the scope of investigation,and the Yi tic-tac-toe looms under investigation are mainly concentrated in Yunnan Province,including Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture,Honghe Hani Yi Prefecture,Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture,Wenshan Zhuang and Miao Autonomous Prefecture,Kunming City,Qujing City,Lincang City,Lijiang City and other Yi ethnic settlements,and a small number of Yi villages in Liupanshui City,Guizhou Province.According to the structural characteristics of the Yi tic-tac-toe looms under investigation combined with the geographical distribution,the existing Yi tic-tac-toe looms are compared and studied.From the overall perspective,the identity characteristics of different tic-tac-toe loom types were analyzed from the aspects of loom shape,loom structure and weaving principle.From a local perspective,the different characteristics of different tic-tac-toe loom types were analyzed from the aspects of the relationship between the loom and space,the weaving posture,and the lifting device.Natural geographical factors are objective factors for the Yi people in different regions to choose different textile raw materials.The complex and diverse natural conditions in southwest China have created conditions for the diversified development of traditional textile techniques of the Yi people,and formed a variety of textile techniques suitable for the weaving of Yi tic-tac-toe looms.This paper carefully investigates and records the textile techniques of hemp,ramie,cotton,and fireweed applied to tic-tac-toe weaving,including the complete process from planting and collection of textile raw materials to primary processing,spinning,yarn guide,warp pulling to machine preparation,and finally weaving into cloth.Summarize the types of fabrics woven by Yi tic-tac-toe looms,and analyze the decorative processes and applications of these fabric types in the later stage.(3)The third part is the cultural research of Yi tic-tac-toe,and the article summarizes the characteristics of material culture displayed by the material representation of Yi tictac-toe,as well as the characteristics of intangible cultural aspects such as textile techniques and folk culture included in tic-tac-toe.On this basis,combined with the influencing factors such as ethnic homologous ancestry,natural geographical environment,political and economic development,cultural exchanges and exchanges,the reasons for the cultural characteristics of Yi tic-tac-toe looms were deeply analyzed.After research,collation and analysis,the following conclusions are mainly formed:(1)Tracing the development history of traditional textile activities of the Yi ethnic group from the perspective of time vertically,showing phased characteristics in the time dimension,with the life course of origin,development,prosperity,decline and revival.In the spatial dimension,the distribution characteristics of concentration and dispersion,the Yi textile activities in southwest China were mostly concentrated in Yunnan Province,and scattered in Qianxi Province of Guizhou Province and Liangshan Prefecture of Sichuan Province.The use of textile raw materials in the traditional textile activities of the Yi ethnic group shows the characteristics of change from single to diversified,from only hemp in the early stage,to the later use of hemp(ramie,hemp),cotton(Yunnan cotton),silk,animal fur(yak hair,wool,sheepskin),firegrass and other textile materials.(2)According to the local characteristics of the Yi ethnic tic-tac-toe looms under investigation and geographical distribution,they are divided into seven types: central Yunnan,southern Yunnan,northwest Yunnan,southwest Yunnan,northeast Yunnan,southeast Yunnan and northwest Qian.A comparative study of all types of tic-tac-toe looms shows that they have the same characteristics in shape,structure and weaving principle,and there are different characteristics in loom and space,weaving posture and weaving device.Tic-tac-toe loom has strong applicability in Yi textile activities,suitable for the weaving of hemp,ramie,cotton and fireweed.Therefore,according to the material characteristics of the Yi tic-tac-toe loom,the characteristics of its material culture were summarized and the reasons for its formation were explored: the identity characteristics of the loom shape originated from the similarity and common ancestral relationship between the Yi and Yi language tribes,as well as similar production and lifestyles;The diversity characteristics of textile materials are closely related to the complex and diverse geographical environment in southwest China.The progressive characteristics of the weaving machine improvement are closely related to the influence of cultural exchanges and blending between the Yi ethnic groups and other ethnic groups in different historical periods.(3)Today,the Yi ethnic groups in different regions have mastered the complete textile technology process of hemp,ramie,cotton and fireweed,and the Yi ethnic groups in different regions have the same textile technology for the same textile raw materials.The fabrics woven by Yi tic-tac-toe looms are divided into two categories: primary color plain fabrics and colored plain fabrics,and according to the way of fabric formation,they are divided into pure textiles and interwoven fabrics,which are summarized by tic-tactoe woven fabrics There are 12 types of fabrics.These fabrics were widely used in Yi clothing,daily necessities and other aspects after being decorated by embroidery or printing and dyeing processes in the later stage.This paper summarizes the characteristics of the intangible culture of Yi tic-tac-toe looms and explores the reasons for their formation: the complexity of textile technology is related to the complex geographical environment in southwest China providing the Yi people with a variety of material choices and skill combinations.The liveliness of skill inheritance is deeply influenced by cultural policies on people’s awareness of inheriting and protecting traditional culture.The bearing capacity of folk culture stems from the fact that the Yi tic-tac-toe looms and the textiles woven by them carry the expressions of folk culture in different periods;The rheology of cultural development is closely related to factors such as social and economic development,changes in social environment,changes in production and lifestyle,and changes in aesthetic consciousness. |