Nowadays,the demand for hairdressing is increasing,and the frequency of hair washing,perming and styling is high;in addition,environmental stress is also prone to hair damage,and these factors often lead to dry and frizzy hair,decreased softness,damaged hair and easy breakage,so the development of active ingredients with strong hair care effects has become a hot research topic.The tensile properties of hair strands are related to the moisture and hydrogen bonds within the hair strands,so it is valuable to introduce sodium hyaluronate,which has excellent moisturizing properties and the ability to form hydrogen bonds,as a hair strand strengthening active ingredient.Based on this,the effects of five different molecular weights and structures of sodium hyaluronate on hair tensile and anti-frizz properties were systematically investigated in this paper.And the mechanism of action of sodium hyaluronate efficacy was further investigated.In addition,the inclusions stabilized with VE acetate,sucrose palmitate and glycerol linoleate were used to explore the facilitation effect of inclusions on the penetration of sodium hyaluronate of each molecular weight.The main studies and results are as follows:(1)To investigate the effects of different types of sodium hyaluronate solutions on hair tensile properties and anti-frizz properties,and to explore the potential of sodium hyaluronate for use in residual products.It was found that low molecular(average molecular weight 42 k Da)sodium hyaluronate and super active sodium hyaluronate could significantly enhance hair tensile properties as well as anti-frizz ability due to their strong penetration ability.Based on this,the pattern of hair care efficacy of sodium hyaluronate and its effect in specific product formulations were further explored.(2)Through the hair thermogravimetric test and the tensile test under high relative humidity environment,it can be proved that the effect of sodium hyaluronate on improving the tensile properties is related to the formation of hydrogen bonds in the hair and the influence of water storage state in the hair.Based on this,the hydrogen bond destruction experiment of urea was designed.By introducing the ability of urea to destroy the hydrogen bond formed by sodium hyaluronate,it was observed that the effect of sodium hyaluronate on improving tensile properties disappeared after the action of urea.The Fourier total reflection infrared spectrum of hair shows the shift of amine II peak in hair,which also proves the formation of hydrogen bond from the side.DSC and thermogravimetric experiments showed that the internal moisture state of hair changed after sodium hyaluronate treatment.(3)Since sodium hyaluronate has strong hydrophilicity and water absorption,and large molecular weight sodium hyaluronate has high consistency and poor permeability,a more stable multiple inclusions emulsion was prepared using VE acetate,glycerol linoleate and sucrose palmitate as the transition state in the bicontinuous phase to encapsulate sodium hyaluronate of various molecular weights.The presence of the internal aqueous phase was observed by using crystalline violet and FITC staining and by laser confocal and ultra-deep field microscopy,which indicated that the dilute emulsions were multiple inclusions.Finally,the microstructure was clarified by section cryoelectron microscopy.(4)The formulation and preparation process of the inclusions were optimized by singlefactor experiments,and the best preparation conditions were determined as follows: the oil phase consisted of 6.75 g VE acetate,0.75 g phenoxyethanol,5 g glycerol linoleate,15 g sucrose palmitate,and the oil-water ratio was 1:1.The oil phase was mixed well and stirred for 20 min,and the aqueous phase was poured into the oil phase and then continued to The oil phase was mixed well and stirred for 20 min,then the aqueous phase was poured into the oil phase and continued to stir for 20 min,followed by hydration at 65 °C for 1 h and then cooled to room temperature to obtain a stable bicontinuous phase.The optimal dilution ratio is 1:20 or 1:50,and the inclusions produced by this method can significantly improve the permeation effect of sodium hyaluronate of various molecular weights on skin and hair,making it more effective. |