| Hanfu is the shining pearl of Chinese traditional culture,under the background of Hanfu revival,Song Dynasty Hanfu has become a new fashion which also plays an important role in the Hanfu and has obvious dress style.In recent years,most of the research on the Song Dynasty Hanfu focuses on the Song Dynasty costume and its contemporary design and creation practice,without using the theoretical framework of costume discipline to study the material composition of the contemporary Song Dynasty Hanfu.Therefore,this study takes Song Dynasty Hanfu as the research object,uses the research results of Song Dynasty costume,carries on the all-round and multi-angle research on the style,fabric,color,pattern and technology of the contemporary Song Dynasty Hanfu from the perspective of clothing material composition.Based on the current situation of Hanfu market,this paper focuses on the dress image and fashion of Song Dynasty Hanfu by taking the clothes used in contemporary public life as the foothold.This paper systematically analyzes the Song Dynasty Hanfu,exploring the public’s cognition of the Song Dynasty Hanfu based on eye movement technology and questionnaire survey,and makes an evaluation of the inheritance and innovation of the Song Dynasty Hanfu.This research has enriched the research content of contemporary Hanfu layer by layer,and also builds a bridge between ancient clothing and contemporary Hanfu.The main conclusions are as follows:1.Clarify the development stages of Hanfu and analyze the reasons for the rise of contemporary Song Dynasty Hanfu.Hanfu has experienced three stages of development.In the early stage,the revival of Hanfu aims to arouse the ethnic consciousness of the Han.Later,Hanfu becomes the carrier of traditional culture and more life-oriented.Song Dynasty Hanfu is well known to the public due to its wide spread on media platforms.Hanfu brands provide lovers with various choices of Song Dynasty Hanfu.Its unique "elegant" style and practicality are advocated by modern people.2.The traditional dress image of Song Dynasty Hanfu is relatively fixed,and there are new forms of expression in the new era.The compatibility of traditional Song Dynasty Hanfu is relatively simple,which can be roughly divided into ceremonial clothing and daily clothing.The ceremonial clothing is the main style of wedding dress.The matching modes of female styles are Xiapong,large-sleeved blouse,Beizi,double-breasted blouse boob tube top and beaded skirt.The modes of male styles are leather belt,round collar robe,cross-collar blouse and trousers.In addition to wedding occasions,other ceremonial clothing are more popular in the form of a system of Hanfu.Daily dress is painted beizi（double-breasted blouse）,boob tube top,skirt（trousers）for the women,round collar robe（beizi）,cross-necked blouse and trousers for the men.The Song Dynasty Hanfu also has important characteristics of The Times.Beizi is the main popular style of the Song Dynasty Hanfu and becomes a reference with fixed style features in the contemporary period;Mixing Song Dynasty Hanfu with fashion clothing has become a trend;There are many men’s and women’s designs in the market.The Hechang and Lanshan are no longer exclusively for men.3.The contemporary Song Dynasty Hanfu is unique in costume elements which is different from the Song Dynasty costume.By examining cultural relics,images and documents,Traditional Song Dynasty Hanfu and Improved Song Dynasty Hanfu are reconstructed in the contemporary era.Most of the styles of breast dressing and trousers are improved to meet the needs of modern life.The Song Dynasty Hanfu prefers low-purity colors,with light color elements,showing plain,elegant,clean and natural texture which is consistent with the overall aesthetic pursuit of Song clothing.In terms of patterns,the themes are mostly plants,animals,geometry and images.Plant patterns are the most widely used elements of Song Dynasty Hanfu,which continue Song Dynasty clothes or new patterns created in contemporary times.The craft and fabrics use the conditions and products of the contemporary clothing industry.4.The public has a high degree of acceptance of Improved Song Dynasty Hanfu and Han elements,Song Dynasty Hanfu is in the process of diversified inheritance.There are two trends in the overall style of Song Dynasty Hanfu: traditional style and modern style.The traditional style basically fits the Song Dynasty costume aesthetic which tends to be stable,showing the cultural connotation of simple and elegant;The modern style of Song Dynasty Hanfu shows the cultural integration from ancient to modern costumes and the aesthetic interest of The Times,reinterprets the Song Dynasty Hanfu in the form of national style design,it also shows the unity of the practical and aesthetic functions of traditional clothing.The Song Dynasty Hanfu presents a novel atmosphere of The Times because of its unique style,strong fashion and outstanding personality.The public’s preference for the Song Dynasty Hanfu is mostly related to personal preference,and there exists the same cognition.That is,shape and form are the core elements of constructing Hanfu.Song Dynasty Hanfu should keep the ancient systems such as middle seam,sleeve connection and flat seam,and the clothes tailored by western system should be distinguished by "Han elements".Different from the cognition concept of the masses in the early and middle periods of Hanfu movement,the development of contemporary Song Dynasty Hanfu is the culture of Hanfu led by aesthetics,and the public’s tolerance to its diversified development is also increasing. |
