Research On Pattern Design Of Inner Rotation Style Based On Fitted Two-piece Sleeve

Nowadays,with the rapid development of the garment industry,a variety of largescale fashion shows have become a hot topic of people.Consumers are paying more and more attention to garment.At the same time,the garment enterprises are more and more in-depth to explore the structure or pattern of garment,and the internal rotation of sleeve is also concerned by people because of its beautiful shape.And they also found that structure can better simulate the human arm internal rotation form,and thus can enhance the activity and function of the two-piece sleeve.However,research found that the pattern makers in the enterprise lack of systematic treatment of the internal rotation structure about sleeves.Aiming at the needs of enterprises,this research chooses the fitted two-piece sleeve as the research object,based on the structural characteristics of the human arm,to explore its internal rotation style pattern design.The silhouette of the sleeve is developed on the basis of the arm structure,so the skeletal muscle structure of the human arm and its structural characteristics must be first studied and analyzed,then this study provide a basis for the inner rotation style design of the two-piece sleeve.According to the research,the two bones,ulna and radius crosses,which causes the forearm turn inward under the natural state that the arm have the form of inner rotation.And secondly,we studied on related methods about inner rotation style,and analyzed the existing structural design methods.Based on the existing pattern design about inner rotation style,three effective structural design methods are extracted through fashion draping experiments:(1)dividing line borrowing method: creating the inner rotation effect of smaller piece in two-piece sleeve by adjusting the position of the dividing line below the elbow of the sleeve;(2)sleeve midline shifting method: this method uses the sleeve rotation theory to realize inner rotation sleeve by offset the sleeve midline.We set the shifting variable of the sleeve midline,and finally get the twisting effect of the overall inner rotation of the sleeve body;(3)sleeve midline rotation method: this method is rotating the middle line of the sleeve on the basis of the sleeve prototype,set the amount of rotation of the middle line on the cuff line,so that the prototype of the front and back sleeve bottom seam form a gap between them,so as to achieve the effect of the overall inner rotation of the sleeve.We extracted variables from the three methods and made the patterns.Through the3 D virtual fitting experiment,we determined the value range of each variable of inner rotation pattern design and preliminarily understood the change rule of the included angle of inner rotation.We also made sure the specific value of variables in the three methods,carried on the combined orthogonal experiment design of three factors and four levels,completed the 16 pattern design drawings of sleeve for the orthogonal experiment,finished the subsequent 3D virtual fitting experiment and the actual dressing experiment.We established subjective evaluation system,carried on the dynamic static subjective evaluation experiment on 16 pieces sample,and collect the evaluation data of dynamic and static indexes through the experiment.In the objective evaluation analysis,variance analysis and range analysis are carried out on the data obtained from the 3D virtual fitting experiment,and the parameter value is obtained when the angle of internal rotation is the largest.In the subjective evaluation analysis,we first tested the consistency of the evaluation value,and then we compared the average score of each index of the sample and obtained three samples both with aesthetically pleasing and comfort.According to the objective analysis,the best sleeve with comprehensive is NO.Z15-A0.5B2C1.This thesis explores the pattern design method of fitted two-piece of sleeves with inner rotation,and three methods that can achieve the modeling effect of inner rotation are determined on this basis.This study enriches the existing theoretical basis of sleeve inner rotation modeling,which provides a certain reference of pattern design about twopiece sleeve inner rotation style for pattern maker of the garment enterprises.Li Yuanyuan(Textile Engineering)Supervised by Lu Hong...