Dyeing Effects on Physical Properties of Vicuna and Other Luxury Specialty Fibers: An Experimental Field Study

Evaluation of tensile strength properties is important information for understanding the performances of fibers in terms of resistance for dyeing, processing and clothing manufacturing. Although some strength properties of natural fibers have been measured and studied, there is little information recorded on physical properties of specialty fibers, particularly on vicuna. The purpose of the present study is to analyze dyeing effects on fiber properties of vicuna in comparison to other specialty animal fibers like cashmere, alpaca and wool. Samples of these fibers have been individually measured on tensile strength and elongation properties before and after being submerged into natural and chemical dye-bath solutions. The tensile strength and elongation properties were recorded using single fibers. Vicuna fiber is considered one of the finest fibers in the world with a high value in the textile industry; it is used as a luxury end product and has an important social benefit and impact on lives of the local Andean producers. Due to its finesses at 11.25micro, it is difficult to process. Five kg of raw vicuna fiber were imported from Bolivia into California (with proper authorization of the government). The fiber was taken through the production line from raw wool to fabric form. In addition, a series of conventional methods: AATCC and ASTM standards were used to characterize the fiber, yarn and fabric samples. Various physical tests including tensile strength, abrasion resistance, colorfastness to light, colorfastness to laundering and a few others have been recorded. The results indicate that dyeing vicuna fiber with either a natural dye or a chemical acid dye does not change the tensile strength property of the fiber. The fiber strength of vicuna was recorded at 246.68 MPa before dye, 326.14 after the natural dye and 303.26 MPa after the chemical dye.