Five Building Blocks: A Study of Madeleine Vionnet's Construction Techniques Explained to the Novice Through the Exploration of Five Patterns by Betty Kirke

The aim of this research was to study French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet's innovative garment construction techniques through dress patterns generated by Betty Kirke. Kirke, an American entrepreneur and costume conservator, conducted extensive artifact-based research, focusing on pattern design and engineering, as well as on Vionnet's life and times. Vionnet used the structural properties of the fabric as a foundation for her bias-cut creations rather than relying on aesthetic considerations alone. I use this case study to break down the process for a novice learner; I have reproduced five key patterns created by Kirke and suggested by her as the cornerstone of Vionnet's work. Using reflexive methodology, I describe the draping procedure step-by-step, and identify technical issues novices may have difficulty with. Through my struggle with the complicated draping process, my deficiency of technical knowledge, and my modern fashion bias, I come to a greater understanding of both women.