| Almost the entire coast of Nikiski and coastal plain of Cook Inlet is subject to erosion. Coastal bluffs, ranging from 6 to 60 meters (m) in height, are receding in response to natural processes, including wave attack, precipitation, and wind.; The study of shoreline change and beach protection requires analysis of coastal processes over entire littoral cells, which may span 10--100 kilometers (km) in length. Wave data are generally not available at the site. Estimating wave growth and transformation, directional spectral wave analysis, wind analysis and tidal influences are the critical components of the coastal engineering projects.; Generation of larger waves typically occurs in relatively deep water beyond and across the continental shelf. The dominant processes for wave generation are atmospheric (wind) input and nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In intermediate to shallow water depths, wave transformation processes become dominant. These processes include wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and breaking.; Numerical computer wave models provide predictive tools for evaluating various forces governing wave climate, transformation of waves from deep to nearshore water and related sediment transport processes. Quantitative information produced from numerical models can be used for most of engineering projects. |
