| Neroli oil is the distilled extract of bitter orange flower of Rutaceae citrus.It is usually extracted by steam distillation.The main components of Neroli oil are limonene,pinene,laurelene,etc.These natural components constitute the unique aroma and efficacy of Neroli oil,which makes it popular and widely used in essential oil and cosmetics industry.It has also been reported that Neroli oil has the effects of whitening,freckle removing,antioxidant,antimicrobial and antifungal.In this study,Neroli oil was used as nanoemulsifiable oil phase to dissolve paeonol and play a whitening role in coordination with Paeonol.Paeonol is the main component of extract from traditional Chinese medicine peony bark,which has many pharmacological effects such as anti-inflammatory,anti-allergic and anti-bacterial.In addition,it has been reported that Paeonol can also inhibit tyrosinase,which is the key enzyme to produce melanin.Therefore,Paeonol can inhibit the formation of skin stains caused by pigmentation.Therefore,Paeonol has the possibility to be used in freckle-removing products.However,Paeonol is insoluble in water,which greatly limits its application in medicine and cosmetics.In this study,oil phase was screened to prepare nanoemulsion,which greatly improved the solubility of Paeonol.Paeonol encapsulated in nanoemulsion was easy to penetrate the skin and reach the basal layer of the skin to inhibit tyrosinase.Nanoemulsion is a new drug delivery system composed of water,oil phase,surfactant and cosurfactant.It has incomparable advantages compared with traditional liquid,paste and cream.Nanoemulsion has transparent and stable appearance,small particle size,which can greatly improve the absorption rate and bioavailability of drugs,solve the absorption problem of insoluble drugs.It’s easy for preparation,with better safety,and can also be used as a targeting and controlled release system.It has a very broad application prospect in food,medicine,cosmetics and other industries.Because of nanoemulsion has good fluidity and it is not easy to adhere to skin,so it is necessary to add the nanoemulsion to the hydrogel matrix to disperse in its naturalskeleton to make the final product easy to adhere to the skin,at the same time can slowly penetrating the active ingredients through the skin.On the one hand,nanoemulsion can prevent the nanoemulsion from being Ostwald ripening and make the nanoemulsion more stable.Therefore,nanoemulsion based hydrogels were prepared.In this study,nanoemulgel for skin whitening was studied.The adoped ingredients are natural green.(1)The plant essential oil,Neroli oil and octyldodecanol which widely used in cosmetics as the mixed oil pHase.The natural non-ionic emulsifier Tween 80 as surfactant,the commonly used moisturizer glycerin as a cosurfactant.As Paeonol is insoluble in water,it is necessary to determine the solubility of Paeonol and screen the oil phase which can dissolve Paeonol.Paeonol was dissolved in selected oil phase,and low energy PIC(Phase inversion composition)method was used to optimize the formulation through simplex lattice design to prepare mixed oil phase nanoemulsion.(2)The physical and chemical properties,particle size,morphology and stability of nanoemulsion were studied to ensure that the prepared nano-emulsion had good properties.(3)In order to make up for the shortcoming of nano emulsion which is not easy to adhere to the skin,sodium hyaluronate,carboxy methyl cellulose sodium(CMC-Na)and carbomer 940 were chosen as hydrogel matrix to prepare.The appearance,viscosity and stability of the nanoemulgel were investigated,and the Franz diffusion tank was used to study the transdermal properties.(4)Finally,the safety and effect of inhibition on tyrosinase are also studied.The results showed that the preparation of nano emulsion hydrogel could significantly inhibit the formation of melanin.So the study of the Neroli oil Paeonol nanoemulgel is meaningful and there are possibilities for it used in skin-whitening product. |
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