Research On Waist Dart Structure Of Clothing Fit For Human Body With Bias Cutting Lines

With the drive of current innovation transition development policy,the demand of innovation technical personnel increases,innovation technology research has been paid more attention.This article selects the unique design of the bias cutting line clothing waist structure as the research object,using three-dimensional cutting experiments,data analysis and other methods to research on how to fit the bias cutting line clothing’s waist structure of human body,the main research work is as follows:(1)Analysis and summary of basic theory related to issues.Including female thoracolumbar dynamic and static body shape characteristics,thoracolumbar human main body surface shape,the general feminine thoracolumbar build characteristics,from both the relaxation quantity and the cutting line design aspects,carry on the definition and the research based on the human body characters’ top structural design.(2)Make 7 experimental garments,with 400°、45°、50°、55°、60°、65°、70°7 bias cutting line clothing,name them as group A.After being observed and exhibition,find the major problem,the waist structure did not tally the human body well,the waist dart equal distribution can’t tally the human body waist structure well,also clear about the key to the research,namely discover the rules of bias cutting line clothing which fits the human body waist structure.(3)Use three-dimensional cutting technique,made 7 revision clothes,name them as group B.Mainly studied:each cutting line of four-piece bias cutting line clothing place waist dart quantity’s assignment,each waist line and the level line included angle’s size,vertical ascent distance of waist dart middle point.Use SPSS software to carry on the curve estimate analysis,has obtained each waist dart quantity assignment mathematical models,the waist line and the level line included angle mathematical models,waist dart middle point vertical ascent distance mathematical models separately.Studied tallied human body waist structure bias cutting line clothing pattern-making method and drew out new questions:after basically tallying the human body waist structure,appeared bias cutting line style change and the size decreases as well.(4)Carried on three-dimensional cutting,made 7 different angles clothes,name group C,changed group B with the problem of unartistic and subparallel cutting lines and size problem.(5)By putting on human body,established the subjective evaluation system,use psychology rod law,select the static and dynamic evaluation indicator,carry on the subjective evaluation.Altogether B、C group 14 clothes,evaluated clothes’ static artistry and dynamic comfort.Use the Kendall coordination coefficient inspection method to appraise the empirical datum to carry on the pretreatment,and for the evaluating indicator and the clothes type,use the cluster analysis to obtain the best clothes with overall performance.Using the regression analysis,established the subjective evaluation model:mass Static synthesis artistry evaluation model and mass dynamic motion comfort evaluation model.(6)Made another garment in order to prove validity of the rules,mathematical models subjective evaluation model built before.The present paper uses mannequin as foundation,takes the research of four-piece bias cutting line clothing pattern.Based in the area of technology closely linked with clothing enterprises,well induced the rules of bias cutting line clothing which fits the human body waist structure,and the research basically solved the problems of the bias cutting line style change and the size decrease.The result will be a deep and effective exploration of clotning structural design research.Until now,this kind of clothing’s pattern-making methods and research references are quite few.This topic’s research deepened the bias cutting line clothing pattern-making technology richly,encouraged the drive of clothing industry innovation transition development,provided clothing technical personnel with more widespread mentality and method.Therefore,the paper’s research results have the high innovation and the strong usability.