| In recent years,the beauty sector has been in a state of rapid development,the market prospects are quite broad.As a FMCG,mask industry is developing rapidly.However,due to the emergence of a variety of security issues,people on the requirements of these skin products tend to be more natural.As a natural protein fiber,silk has closest structure of amino acid with human skin.Silk fiber is made of many nanofibers,for this reason,the permeability and the adsorption of silk fiber are relatively good.The presence of hydrophilic pendant groups on the sericin chain make the natural moisturizing efficacy.In addition,not only silk can highly refract and reflect light,but also the aromatic amino acids in it can absorb ultraviolet light,so that silk has the ability to reduce UV damage to the skin;Moreover,silk contains a lot of active proteins,such as the oxidoreductase can effectively remove oxygen free radicals in vivo.Antibacterial protein can inhibit the growth of fungus.Carrier protein like glycoprotein and lipoprotein can provide a variety of nutrients for the skin.It is with the existence of these functional proteins that many well-known mask manufacturers launch series of products of silk mask,this fully shows that the silk mask market has great potential.However,most of these manufacturers only take advantage of the concept of silk to advertise their mask products,which are not really made of silk.After investigation,there are three kinds of “silk mask” in the market today.First kind of “silk mask” is substrate with silk and other materials;the second kind is adding silk fibroin into essence,the mask substrate is not silk;the last kind is copying the web structure of silk fibers to produce mask substrate,the most common is the copper ammonia fiber,entirely without silk fiber.Where the third one is the majority in three kind of “silk mask”.Actually,These manufacturers are only utilize the concept of silkto advertise their mask products.Consumers did not experience the real effect of silk.Why are there almost no real silk mask on the market? The main reason is that the silk itself does not absorb water very well,so the substrate made by silk can not retain the essence and fit well with skin.Second,the processing technology is difficult,the traditional silk mask substrate,mostly made by spunlaced non-woven process.As the poor conductivity of silk fiber,it is very easy to produce static electricity.This could make a common problem of catching fibers,resulting the carding process can not be normol.Coupled with expensive silk prices,make the real silk mask has not been widely used in the market by consumers.Therefore,it is necessary to study a silk mask substrate that really contains silk protein.In this paper,three kinds of silk mask substrates were made by different techniques(spunlace method,paper making method and manual method),and these three methods both make improvements on the basis of traditional non-woven technology.Then we made a comparative analysis of these three silk mask substrates on pHysical properties(surface density,thickness,pore size,mechanical properties)and functional properties(air permeability,liquid absorb ability).Experiments show that the three kinds of mask substrates are in line with the relevant provisions of industry standards.The main results are as followed:1.Determination of the production process of silk mask substrate by spunlace method and detection of protein content(1)According to the traditional spunlace technology,we determined the specific technology of making the silk mask substrate by spunlace method,mainly the water-retaining finishing process of the degumming silk fiber.The optimal technology are as follows:bath ratio 20:1,the dosage of the water-retaining agent 10g/L,pH3,temperature 60 ?,time 60 min.Through this process,the water-retaining property has improved significantly than ordinary silk fiber.After the water-retaining finishing,silk fiber then begin to spunlace.The main parameters of the spunlace process are set as follows: pressure of pre-wetting 15 kg,pressure of 1 # spit tips 30 kg,pressure of 2 # spit tips 40 kg,pressure of 3 # spit tips 50 kg,pressure of 4 # spit tips 60 kg,pressure of rolling car 2kg,drying temperature 60 ?.After these processes,we get the silk mask substrate by spunlace method.(2)We used urea method to extract the sericin in silk fibers before spunlace and sericin in the mask fabric after spunlace,then identified the proteins by LC-MS /MS.The results were: A total of 37 proteins were identified in silk fibers,and no protein was identified in silk mask substrate.This proved that spunlace can not guarantee the content of sericin in silk mask substrate.2.Determination of the production process of silk mask substrate by papermaking method and detection of protein content(1)The specific technology of making silk mask substrate by the paper making method was determined.First,incomplete degumming process: bath ratio 50:1,the amount of soap is 4 g/L,the amount of Na2CO3 is 3g/L,temperature 80 ?,time 30 min,under these conditions,we got the partial degummed silk with the residual gum rate at4.42%.Then pretreatment process and fiber dissociation process: soak the degumming fiber under in 1% NaHCO3 solution at 20? for 1h,then transfer them to the pulps dissociation,set the speed as 5000r/min,stirring time 1h,then neutralized the pulp fiber suspensions with acid.Paper making technology: dilute the pulp fiber suspensions with4 times water,then make the silk paper in pulp paper making machine,paper basis weight is 40g/m~2.(2)We used urea method to extract the sericin in silk fibers before papermaking treatment and sericin in the mask fabric after papermaking,then identified the proteins by LC-MS/MS.The results were: A total of 89 proteins were identified in silk fibers,and 12 proteins were identified in silk mask substrate.This Indicated that papermaking method would make sericin less in silk mask substrate.3.Determination of the production process of silk mask substrate by manual method and detection of protein content(1)We enacted the manual process of making silk mask substrate.First,pretreatment process of cocoon: bath ratio 100: 1,the dosage of NaHCO3 0.3g/L,JFC0.5g/L,temperature 40 ?,time 0.5h.Steaming process: bath ratio 200: 1,Na2CO3 1g/L,time 2h),and then washed off the residual alkali on cocoon,and put cocoon in cold water opened,open the cocoon layer,hanging it on the bow mold,then formed a reticulated film after several times repeated.Reticulated film through water-retaining finishing and shape finishing,we cut it into silk mask substrate on the mold.(2)We used urea method to extract the sericin in cocoon before treatment and sericin in the mask fabric after treatment,then identified the proteins by LC-MS/MS.The results were: A total of 151 proteins were identified in cocoon,and 122 proteins were identified in silk mask substrate by manual method.This Indicated that manual method can be very good to retain sericin.4.Performance analysis of different silk mask substrates(1)The physical properties of silk mask substrate(1)According to the standard GB / T24218-2010,the surface densities of the three mask substrates were tested: papermaking method(36.67g/m~2)>spunlace method(34.67g/m~2)>manual method(35g/m~2).(2)The thickness values of three mask substrates were measured by vernier caliper:spunlace method(0.13?m)>manual method(0.09?m)>papermaking method(0.07?m).(3)We used the scanning electron microscope to compare the pore size of the three mask substrates: manual method>spunlace method>papermaking method.(4)The tensile properties of three kinds of mask substrates were tested by AGS-X tensile testing machine.It was found that the silk mask substrate produced by spunlace was formed by "?" cross-linking between fibers,so it has the best tensile properties.Following is the silk mask substrate produced by manual method,due to the stickness of residual sericin and cross-linking between long fiber,making it has a good tensile properties.Last kind silk mask substrate is made by paper making method,because there are not any cross-linking agent in the process,resulting the mask substrate has a poor strength and elongation.(2)Functional test of silk mask substrate(1)The permeability of the three kinds of mask substrates were measured by YG461E-? automatic air permeability instrument.The results showed that the air permeability of the mask substrate made by manual method was the best,and the average air permeability reached 2925.7mm/s.The permeability of the mask substrate produced by spunlace method was in the middle,the average air permeability at1757.7mm/s.The mask substrate made by papermaking method had the worst air permeability,average air permeability at 300.3mm/s.(2)According to standard GB / T 24218.6-2010,using distilled water as the absorption liquid we tested the liquid absorb ability of copper ammonia fiber mask substrate and the three kinds of mask substrates in this paper,the results found: manual method(1233%)>spunlace method(1093%)>copper ammonia mask(811%)>papermaking method(493%).(3)Related standard testingAccording to QB/T 2872-2007 for testing,because the standard focuses on the essence of mask,and this paper is limited to the study of mask substrate,we only test the related items about substrate.mainly physical and chemical indicators: pH,heatresistance,cold resistance.The experimental results show that the silk mask substrates produced by three processes meet the standards.Based on the above results,we evaluate the three kinds of silk mask substrate.It is found that the silk mask substrate prepared by spunlace method has a relatively good mechanical performance,good air permeability and liquid absorb ability,but there are almost no residual sericin protein in the mask substrate due to the limited technology;The silk mask substrate by paper making method has the best uniformity,but the mechanical performance is too poor,almost have no malleability.Similarly,the silk mask substrate made in this way also has no sericin protein.Importantly,the hand-made silk mask substrate not only retains a high content of sericin protein,but also has good mechanical properties,excellent permeability and liquid absorb ability.After standard testing,the physical and chemical properties both meet the requirements,proving that the silk mask substrate is suitable for further study. |
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