The Preparation Of Camellia Oil For High-end Cosmetics And Its Properties Investigation

In Japan,the refined camellia oil has been used in a variety of advanced natural beauty skin care products.However,camellia oil is used extensively for cooking oil in China,its application in cosmetics is very limited.As a factor for restricting the application of camellia oil in cosmetic is part of greasy substance remains in the surface of skin after applying,which will absorb some dust and make people uncomfortable.The main purpose of this study is to determine the greasy substance produced in camellia,and take effective measures to reduce or remove it.At the same time taken evalution on the physicochemical properties and safety of camellia oil after treatment,and compared with untreated oil and cosmetic base oil by Commercially available.The main results of research are as follows:1)The permeability of camellia oil was studied by Franz diffusion cells and compare with olive oil and sweet almond oil.The result show that the permeation rate of oils were inversely proportional to the content of saturated fatty acids.The fatty acids composition of camellia oil was analyzed by GC before and after permeation.After permeation of 8h,the content of saturated fatty acid in the receiving pool is reduced,while the content of unsaturated fatty acid increased.The situation in the supply pool was contrary.The difficult to permeation in camellia oil is saturated fatty acids.Further make a sensory score to containing different concentrations of saturated fatty acid in Camellia Oil,to determine the threshold concentration of saturated fatty acids for 6% have greasy feeling.2)Saturated fatty acids in camellia oil removed by lipase transesterification combined with urea inclusion method.The optimum conditions of the synthesis of isopropyl ultrasonic assisted enzymatic method for the ultrasonic power of 200 W,ultrasonic pretreatment time of 5 min,enzyme dosage of 220 U/g,substrate ratio of 6:1,and the reaction temperature is 60 ?.Under this condition,the synthesis of 50% isopropyl takes about 3h.The stability of Novozym 435 under ultrasonic condition was also investigated.It was found that the lipase had good activity after 8 times of reuse.The optimum conditions of separation of unsaturated fatty acid ester by urea complexation for the urea fatty acid ratio of 3:1,inclusion temperature of-20 ? and inclusion time of 12 h.Under these condition,the unsaturated fatty acids with highly purified than 94.8%,while the yield is above 78.3%.The removal rate of saturated fatty acids were above 50%.3)Physicochemical properties and safety of processed oil were evaluated.The results show that compared for processed and untreated camellia oil,the acid value and viscosity obviously decreased,the acid value from 1.09 mg KOH/g to 0.18 mg KOH/g,and the viscosity were from 62.44 mpa·s to 14.57 mpa·s.The product in the peroxide value,saponification value and refractive index were slightly better than untreated oil,and similar to sweet almond oil by commercially available.The results of the acute skin irritation test showed that the skin irritation response score of the product was less than 0.49,which had no irritation to the skin.The results of RBC hemolysis test showed that the hemolytic rate of the product was 7.47% and less than 9.62% of untreated camellia oil,which would not cause damage to red blood cells and stimulate,and had highly security used in cosmetics.