| A large number of textiles have been found by exploration of the Swiss scientific expedition team led by Sven Hedin in the Ejina area of Inner Mongolia. Most unearthed textiles have been decayed into debris damage withstanding for a long time buried underground or surface weathering and erosion. However they are important historical heritage materials, because of carrying a lot of valuable archaeological information. In this paper, the two piece of textile fragments unearthed in Inner Mongolia Ejinaqi Heishui city ruins were deeply analyzed and researched on fiber identification, aging analysis, dating, fabric structure,etc. The following conclusions were drawn.After pretreated by ultrasonic instrument, the unearthed textile fragments were clearly observed. It is found that the fibers are uneven in fineness, wool scale characteristics are obvious, the cross section of the fiber is approximately circular and part of the crude fibers have medullary cavity under scanning electron microscope. According to the results of SEM and IR, the two pieces of unearthed textiles are identified that one is made from fine wool and the other is fine wool mixed with a small amount of yak hairs. By scanning electron microscopy, we observed that some wool fibers were seriously damaged, be split broken, corroded, flaked and even decayed into a honeycomb appearance. Comparing with the infrared characteristic absorption spectrums of modern wool, the characteristic peaks intensity of the excavated sample was decreased. Obviously, absorption peak at 1015cm-1 and 1007 cm-1 respectively was emerged which showed the disulfide bonds in wool protein were broken. Because of having no absorption peak at 1700cm-1, it is conjectured that the sample was mainly affected by heat aging. The results of 14 C suggested that two pieces of unearthed textiles were come from Xixia or Yuan Dynasty. According to the literature records, fine wool fibers in unearthed textiles were carry out the process of fiber carding.In this paper, by analysing, the structure of one unearthed textile fragment is 2/2 reinforced twills and the other one is 2/2 twining fabric. Using the same wool yarn as raw material, the structure of 1/1,2/2,2/2 double,2/2 leno,2/2 oblique twining fabrics were plaited by hand. Comparing with plaited structure, plain, 2/2 twill, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 weft rib weaves were prepared. The researching results of performances show that thickness of the twining fabric is greater than woven fabrics. And the properties, such as wear-resistant, low permeability, good wind resistance, low warp and weft elongation, unease deformation, large bending stiffness, crisp and its warmth retention property were close to that of woven fabrics. Among all the twining fabrics, the 2/2 twining fabric has soft handfeel, more appropriate thickness and fluffy, good air permeability, good bending stiffness, more appropriate tensile property and fracture strength, both crisp and sensitivity to a certain extent. By speculating, the 2/2 twining fabric can be applied to a variety of purposes, for example, decoration or mat class of wool fabric.In this paper, the two jacquard pattern of twining fabrics were rewoven by using traditional weaving technique of the warp brocade and weft brocade. The linked-pearl motif with style of Tang dynasty has been developed to be reproduced. |
PDF Full Text Request