Boussinesq Modelling Of The Wave Propagation On The Steep Reef

Our country has been one of the countries with many reefs. In recent years, many scholars paid more and more attentions to the research about coral reefs with the development of buildings that have been built on it. Many experts did a lot of researches about wave propagation on the steep reef flat so the theory of steep reefs becomes more and more perfect. But the numerical simulation work about the wave propagation on the reef flat were mostly limited to slope reef.Funwave-TVD wave model based on the second order fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation was used in this paper and the wave propagation characteristics on the steep reef was modelled. So we could extend the hydrodynamic field, provide guidance for similar terrain. Main content of paper was as follows:The numerical results were well compared with the data came from experiment carried out in oil spilling water channel at Dalian university of science and published paper wrote by Yao, which fully demonstrated the applicability of the Funwave-TVD wave model to the steep reef.This paper has discussed the wave propagation on the steep reef under different wave elements, slope ratio and depth of water in order to get the picture of mean wave height and mean water level. The research results proved that:for the condition of deep water,the average wave height decreased to 0.2 times of original wave height when the wave moved away from the slope toe of the reef to 4 times of original wave length or further; the wave appeared set-up phenomenon. Meanwhile, this paper gave the broken wave height distribution curve by using empirical formula. This paper compared the results of the wave height curve from the empirical formula and Funwave-TVD wave model, and we found that:? and k values were different for different wave element; if ? and k values were appropriate, the empirical formula can describe the broken wave height distribution.This paper also used the numerical model to simulate the water set-up phenomenon when set the building on the coral reefs under different wave conditions. The results showed that: even though La is different, the average wave height distribution was almost same, wave height in front of the building on the reef flat irregular change greatly. When set the building, waves occurred set-up phenomenon;When buildings were away from reef, set-up changed from small to big, but the biggest value was consistent;With wave height and period increased, set-up value was more and more big and set-up phenomenon was more obvious.