Preparation Of Hyaluronic Acid Dispersed Hesperetin Micelles Toner And Effect Valuation Of Whitening And Anti-inflammation

Objective:Preparation of hyaluronic acid dispersed hesperetin micelles solution with lower content of surfactants, which would provide an experimental basisis for the development of hesperetin toner with multiple effects, such as moisturizing, whitening, anti-inflammation and friendly to the skin and human-body.Methods:Selecting ethanol as solvent, Tween80, Tween20 and RH40 as surfactants,hyaluronic acid aqueous solution as the macromolecular stabilizer, hesperetin micelles were prepared. With clarifying and transparency as the evaluation standard, preparation technology and formulation of the hesperetin micelles were investigated, including the type and amount of surfactants, the amount and addition method of hyaluronic acid, heating and the heating method. The particle size and Zeta potential of hesperetin micelles were investigated using Malvan laser particle size analyzer. According to the light industry standards QB/T 2660-2004 of People’s Republic of China, the quality of hesperetin micelles as toner was preliminarily investigated. The whitening and anti-inflammation effect of the hesperetin toner were preliminarily evaluated using UVB-induced pigmentation model of guinea pig and carrageenin-induced paw edema in rats.Results:Using a mixture of RH40 and Tween 80 which had no irritating odor, the surfactant content could be reduced to 3.6%, so they were screened as the surfactant of hesperetin micelle solution. Adding Hyaluronic acid the stability of the micelle solution could be improved, its optimum content was selected as 0.3%. Heating to phase change,the micelles stability could be significantly improved. The best preparation method of hesperetin micelle solution was obtained: firstly, the sodium hyaluronate was swollen with water and thena stock solution of 0.5% hyaluronic acid was prepared; then, hesperetin was added to the ethanol, ultrasonic dissolved, adding the surfactant immediately and mixing evenly. The distilled water was slowly added in the solution at room temperature and under600 rmp magnetic stirring; and then heated to phase changing, after cooled to room temperature, a stock solution of 0.5% hyaluronic acid was added. The optimization formulation in terms of weight percent was obtained: 0.13% hesperetin,2.4% ethanol,3.6% surfactant(RH40: Tween 80 = 2:1,m/m), 0.3% hyaluronic acid was, and the rest was water. The average particle size of the optimization hesperetin micelles solution was14.41 nm, Zeta potential was-14.7mv, which was according with the size of nanoscale dispersion. The hesperetin micelle was clear, transparent, colorless and non-irritating odor, its p H was 5.5, and had good stability under high and low temperature which was corresponding to the sensory physical and chemical indicators of light industry standards QB / T 2660-2004 of People’s Republic of China. Compared with the blank and positive control group, the product showed a better whitening and anti-inflammation effect.Conclusions:The micelle solution containing less alcohol and surfactants, using hyaluronic acid with moisturizing and penetration enhancing ability as a stabilizer, dispersing the acctive subtance of hesperetin with whitening and anti-inflammation effect stably in an aqueous medium in nanometer size, which expected to develop into a skin care products with good absorption, friendly to skin, and moisturizing, whitening anti-inflammatory effects, such as toner and so on.