Jacquard Technique Study On Integration Effect Of Combined-Processing

Nowadays, textile products especially high-grade jacquard products trend to be more individualized. Individualized product has strong vitality, broad market prospects and favorable economic returns. In order to achieve personalized products, a variety of textile technology are combined, which is the so-called combined-processing. For example, fabrics can attain embroidery and quilting effect by embroidery and further quilting process. On the other hand,conducting textile printing firstly and then flocking process can get fabrics with the flocking and printing effects at the same time. But this kind of processing line is time-consuming and a lot of equipment are necessary, which will cost much. So a new processing method to attain multi-effect is quite necessary. On the purpose of that, we explore the principles and methods of jacquard fabric to give fabrics embroidery, quilting, discharge printing or flocking process effect as well as personalized features. Undoubtedly, it is practical significantly.The content and conclusions drawn of this thesis are showing as below:(1) This paper introduced the characteristics of quilting process and the advantages of electronic jacquard process,analysis the appearance of typical quilted fabrics, and discussed the relationship between quilting effect and double weave structure with binding weft. This study proposed the theory and methodology of quilted effect jacquard fabric weave design and illustrated the key points in pattern design, configuration, and computer aided design for imitating quilted effect in double weave jacquard fabric. Silk was taken as the warp and two-ply cotton yarns with different specifications were chosen as the face weft、back weft and binding weft separately. The ratio of face warp and back warp was 3:1 while it of face weft、back weft and binding weft was 2:1:1. The face weft was used as quilting line to bind the two layer weave structure. The design mentioned above along with the hollow bag weave structure of the pattern and ground parts, obtained the quilted effect jacquard fabric with good plumpness, strong sense of three-dimensional, good visual effect and the surface has a uniform “Stitch”.(2) On the basis of analyzed typical embroidered fabric technology and appearance features,the relationship between embroidery effect and pattern and ground organization structure were explored. This study proposed the theory and methodology of the design of single layer jacquard fabric with embroidery effect and illustrated the key points in pattern design, configuration, and computer aided design. Polyester silk imitation was taken as the warp and different specifications of viscose filament and polyester silk imitation were chosen as the pattern weft and ground weft.Toss road design method were used with the weft ratio in pattern set 1:1:1. This weave design method could make the jacquard fabric attain embroidered effect in which the table weft act as embroider line on the surface of the back weft and together with the ground organization structure of level to make the pattern parts raise obviously.(3) This paper developed fabrics of discharge printing process effect by electronic jacquard rapier loom, discussed key points in jacquard process and product performance and analyzed discharge printing fabric’s process technology and appearance features. It proposed principles and methods for discharge printing effect jacquard fabric design. An all-purpose weave structure design method which can be carried out under the traditional single warp beam and normal dyed yarn was proposed by studying the relationship between fabric effect and the weave structure.This design method could make the jacquard fabric attain discharge printing effect, taking double weft structure as the pattern weave with surface and back weft distribution of 1:1 together with the ground organization structure of combination satin of warp, thus making the fabric show full color in ground and the pattern’s silhouette clear. It provide a useful reference for the innovative design of dyed jacquard fabrics.(4) This paper introduced the features of flocking processing technology, analyzed the exterior features of typical flocked fabric and discussed the relationship between flocking effect and engaging portion organization structure of pattern and ground. This study proposed the theory and methodology of flocking effect jacquard fabric design and illustrated the key points in jacquard process. Silk was taken as the warp and cotton yarns with different specifications were chosen as the face weft and back weft and the ratio of face weft and back weft was 1:1. This design method could make the jacquard fabric attain flocking effect with appropriate density,using a combination satin of warp to make the bottom flat and exhibit warp color. Normal double weft weave structure were chosen to make the pattern portion weft color rendering and bulge,thus obtaining the plush and projection effect of flocking process.(5) This study proposed the theory and methodology of the design of jacquard fabric with embroidery and quilting effect and illustrated the key points in weave design, selection and arrangement of yarns. Silk was taken as the warp and two-ply cotton yarns with different specifications were chosen as the face weft, back weft, binding weft and toss road weft separately. The ratio of face warp and back warp was 3:1 while it of face weft、back weft、binding weft and toss road weft was 2:1:1:1.The face weft was used as quilting line to bind the two layer. The design mentioned above along with the hollow bag weave structure of the pattern and ground parts contribute to obtain the quilted effect. And this design method could make the jacquard fabric attain quilted and embroidered effect in which the weft triple organizational structure by face weft、binding weft and toss road weft interweave with warp in pattern portion.To sum up, this paper provides a reference for the fusion of the multi-process effect.