Study On The Influence Factors And The Pattern Correction Method Of The Length Of Bias Cut Trousers

The article studied on a pattern making method of bias cut clothing having spiral structural line introduced from abroad. Spiral structural line of bias cut clothing whose shape is elegant breaks the structure of routine clothing and can meet the pursuit of modern people for personalized clothing in some ways. But bias cut is a kind of method needing correction on the mannequin after getting a rough clothing pattern through flat pattern making. It needs preparing some plus material in advance whose length is unsure when draping, whose operation is difficult. Making reflections on the problem formed the research subject. For the convenience of the research, this paper took trousers as the research object, study for the obvious length problem of the uncorrected bias cut trousers from the fundamental principle of the bias cut trousers pattern design. It aimed to find structural influence factors and change law of the length, summarize corresponding pattern correction method, and then can exactly control the length and basic silhouette of bias cut trousers through pattern making only once. The main researchs were as follows:1) Testing for the grey cloth used in the research with KES. Structure design and trousers making for uncorrected bias-cut trousers pattern and its straight cut trousers pattern respectively. Through paired observation for their wearing effect on mannequin, the changes of bias cut trousers were determined.2) After analyzed the change of the part of waist and hip from the structure, the reason of the length change was identified according to the change of the waist line and hip line. The basic principle of clothing style was used to correct waist darts on the mannequin and then get correction pattern. Through the analysis of the structure, determine method of waistline and hipline was summarized.3) Basic on the geometry principle of clothing three-dimensional modeling, the change of trouser-legs’ length was researched. The length mathematical model of geometric solid of the upper and lower trouser-legs were established. Through analysis for expression of the mathematical model, the Influence factors and its pattern correction method of the length change of bias-cut trousers were founded.4) Through changing the influence factors to make the models of the upper and lower trouser-legs by experiment, the size of relevant parts was measured. Then experimental data was analyzed and regression models between influence factors and length of the trouser-legs were established. At last, the regression models were used on the correction method of the length of bias cut trouser-legs and its result was verified.5) The pattern design, the making and fitting of post-corrected bias cut trousers and straight cut prototype trousers were respectively completed. Feasibility and accuracy of the pattern correction method suggested by the paper were verified. And then subjective evaluation system was established. Through analyzing experiment data from the evaluation of static aesthetics and dynamic comfort for the two trousers by body wear test, the corresponding conclusions were obtained.Standing on fashion industry economy, bias cut technology was researched. Research had three significances:First, the new pattern correction method of the length change of bias cut trousers which can exactly control the length and basic outline of bias cut trousers through pattern making only once, met the requirement of clothing digital development for the precise pattern design. The second, the method can simplify the process of bias cut pattern making, saving time, and also make the industrial production of bias cut trousers possible. The third, the trouser-legs were divided into the upper and lower parts from leg width line. The length change law of bias cut trousers was summarized. Regression models can be supplied for the reference of formula when making the other bias cut trousers’ pattern of different length and style. Finally, it could satisfy people’s pursuit of personalized clothing. Therefore, the research had definite innovation, practicability and social significance.