Subjective And Objective Evaluation On A-line Skirt Shape Based On Fabric Properties

By testing physical and mechanical properties of polyester-cotton fabric samples, and analyzing subjective and objective test data of A-line skirts manufactured from the samples, the relationship between fabric performance and A-line dress shape is studied. The followings are included in this paper:Firstly, academia achievements of apparel appearance are recalled chronologically. It is elaborated from the objects of studies, research methods, research contents and so on, base on which, the research objects, contents and methods of this paper is decided.Secondly, fabric samples are selected followed by the principle of divers、rationality and universality.the physical、mechanical and drape properties needed are determined. After that, all the indicators are tested abbording to the standards.Thirdly, an objective evaluation system is established on the A-line skirt appearance. There are10appearance indicators for each skirt sample. After measuring and calculation, the data of all indicators are collected.3main factors on apparel appearance are extracted:F1(front appearance factor),F2(side appearance factor), F3(underside appearance factor). Cluster analysis is done based on scores each of the3main factors got, and14apparel samples are clustered into4categories.category1is made up of1、1#、10#、11#; there is only one apparel sample in category2, which is2#;3#、9#、12#、13#、14#、15#belong to category3and category4is composed of apparel samples:5#、6#、8#.The relationship between A-line skirt shape and properties of fabric samples are as followings: L is in directly proportion to WE and Bw. α1is in directly proportion to WE, EWs and T. N is in the inverse proportion to BT and F.What’s more, two linear regression equations are found:ρ=-0.133WE+0.893F+1.376and A=66.741GT-55.049Gw+12.902Bw+726.388.Fourthly, a subjective evaluation system on A-line skirt is founded:Semantic differential (SD) method is applied, based on the adjective word, which is used to describe the shape of A-line skirts, collected from surveys and experts interviews, a scale is built in accordance with dimensions. Each scale is devided equally into five levels, and the subjective evaluation standards of A-line skrit are established. After that the subjective evaluation experiments are conducted under the circumstances of average temperature:27℃and average humidity of70.3%.By analyzing results from subjective evaluation experiments, the followings are concluded:The change of fabric samples has an strong effect on results of subjective evaluation experiments, and the subjects prefer the A-line skirts with smaller coefficient p and smaller pleated number N.