Clothing Color Of Tang And Song Dynasties

Dress reflects the atmosphere of times and the style of spirit, which embodies the man and the nature, person and society's relations, and its soul is the color. In the ancient,the dress's color not only had strong politics and superstitious status, which was taken seriously by the ruling class, but also was the expression of the man's taste and the indicate of grades in human being. The ancient dress color is the important visual angle for studying the Chinese political civilization, spiritual civilization and psychological.This paper tries to study the development artery of dress's color, and to explore the people's dress thinking and color view by analysing the existing archaeological information and paintings and literary works, such as poetry,novel, memoirs and so on, which collation historical documents of the Tang and Song Dynasties. Comparison of the Tang and Song in dress color changes and to explore the reason behind the change, then observe the people's psycho-social development of the track,and displaying reasonable changes of the historical and cultural's heritage and ablation, thereby we can make proper understanding and evaluation for the Tang and Song Dynasties.This article is divided into seven parts:First part is introduction,it maily introduces why I choice the topic and its meaning,and review the situation of scholar's research in domestic and oversea about dress cultural studies of the Tang and Song Dynasties.The part two is maily introducing the traditional view of ancient Chinese clothes and color concept,in order to help us better understand the concept of the Tang and Song Dynasties clothes and color concept of heritage and development. This section mainly discusses the pre-Qin Confucianism and Taoism concept of clothing and color concept. Confucianism emphasizes the symbolism of colors, while the Taoist emphasis on simple and natural, and two ideas complement each other, laying the foundation for the Chinese clothing aesthetic.The part three discusses the men's clothing color, including regalia and informal dress, and the ornament color and popular in fashion in the Tang and Song dynasties. By comparison analysis shows that the men's clothing color was still reflected in traditional concept of "pure colours is more imperatorial " in the Tang and Song Dynasties, but the use of color had also broken the traditional rules, and it adapted to the development of the times. The men's clothing color of the Tang and Song Dynasties changed little, but dress of the Song is more concise in the system. Yellow became the emperor's private color, but it strengthened the grade system in fact.The fourth section discusses women's clothing color. This section focusing on the woman's wear—ruqun of the Tang Dynasty and the beizi and ruqun of the Song Dynasty arranging the examination carrying out case in groups, by contrasting grave fresco and classic figure paintings and literary works and historical documents and so on,to summe up women's wear popular color on each era,and to display the different aesthetic styles and era fashion on various historical stages. The people of the Tang advocated bright and gorgeous colour,but the Song people advocated simple and elegant, plain, fresh, natural color style,and the skill of color assortment was more mature than the Tang people.The part five discusses the people's color concepts of the Tang and Song dynasties.Their understanding and grasp of color were more mature, and were focusing on the inheriting traditional concept of color.The Tang people liked to use the exceeding contrast color,such as red and green,while the Song people liked to use the harmonic color, not the dense color contrast. On base of harmony in using color, the Tang people more reflected the anti-tradition, while the Song people more embodied to return tradition.The part six discusses the rheology of color and reflects the psycho-social changes in conditions.This section analyses deeply the cause changing from many aspects, such as politics, economy, thought, religion, science, technology, education and nation cultural exchange etc. If we look from the psycho-social development's angle, the Tang and Song dynasties are inalienable:Initially Tang to before Anlushan Rebellion for the people's psychology stretche time, in the Anlushan Rebellion late arrival mid-Tang for the psychological sudden change time, the late Tang to Five Dynasties for the psychological adjustment time, and the Song Dynasty is the psychological tranquil time. Certainly tranquil also means accumulation, and the Chinese outstanding culture can be summarized and promoted in the Song Dynasty,and it was formed the new cultural tradition and established the later generation new traditional concept.The last section sums up the full-text content,and briefly elaborates the influence of the Tang and Song dress's color for today's dress culture.