The Study Of The Chinese Men On The Dress In Weijinnanbei Dynasty

WeiJinNanBei Dynasty was recognized not only as the period of not only most terrible political disorder in China ascent history, but also remarkable revolution of feudal economical structure. The grand historical transition during this time includes fields of politics, economy, military affairs, culture and even the whole social ideology (philosophy, religion and literary art, etc.). Wars and the following national migrations enhanced the residential mixing of Hu people and Han people, which lead to the unprecedented Great Nationality Combination between them. As a result, the exotic culture from northern nomadic nations and western countries mutually conflicted and impacted the Han culture, injecting new vigor and impetus to the development of Chinese culture. This cultural diversity reinforced the changes in costume forms with diversification, which was characterized by following the costume forms of institutions in Qin and Han Dynasties as well as promoting the open vogue in Sui-Tang Dynasties. Impelled by the intrusion of exotic culture, Han people's costume developed and evolved based on the Shen Yi system, and finally settled down. During this period, the most significant changes were found in men's costume, of which the most vivid epochal and unique characteristics lied in not only the costume itself but also its influence on men's appearance and mien, and all of these are worth profound discussion.The thesis is right focused on this important issue. Based on previous studies, attempts are paid to reveal the inheritance and evolution of men's costume during WeiJinNanBei Dynasty, the relationships between costumes and politics, economy and culture, and both internal and external causations for the formation of men's costume. In order to better present the characteristics of this era, individual and common features of fineries between Han people and minorities are discussed to analyze and induce the diversity of men's costumes of all social stratums, and anatomize the internal causation of men's finery evolution as well. Moreover, based on the aesthetic aspect of men's costume, the thesis also attempts to uncover the era culture in the costume itself and the impacts of politics, culture, aesthetical and ethnic mergence on men's finery.Unfortunately, due to the chaos crossing the WeiJinNanBei Dynasty, few recordation on finery during this period is available, while specific and systematical destination on this issue is also absent in the academia. As a result, efforts are made on the verification of the men's costume of each social stratum, characterization of the materials, patterns, and forms, differentiation of forms of the stratums at various circumstances, and revelation of both internal and external mechanisms during the evolution of the costumes. Mainstream as Han people and Hu people's costumes, it shows that the productivity and living style are decisive for the evolution during the conflict and mergence. Meanwhile, the interfluves of contemporary social stratums, especially the split of scholar stratums, had in negligible influence on triggering new fashion trend, of which the accumulation is yet attributed to the traditional culture, especially by aesthetical culture.