| It is well known that the study of wave breaking is a long history but a lot of problems still need to be further researched. However, this paper just concentrates on energy loss due to wave breaking.On regular waves, the existing achievements have addressed three kinds of methods of studying energy loss due to wave breaking including bore model or hydraulic jump model, surface roller model and turbulence model. It could be concluded that the surface roller model and turbulence model are applicable to spilling breaker, and bore model to both spilling and plunging breakers. Therefore, based on bore model and wave tests on slope of 1/45, 1/30 or 1/15, relationships between breaker coefficient and breaker type could be studied. Comparison with others' results has shown the wide validity of the formula proposed in this paper.Similarly, it could be concluded that parametric model and probabilistic model have been used for studying breaker energy loss of irregular waves on the basis of detailed analysis of the existing achievements concerning wave height distribution, wave breaking probability and wave spectra transformation of irregular waves in surf zone. Thus, wave height distribution and wave breaking probability required for parametric model are physically studied in this paper. Test data show that wave height distribution before wave breaking could be well predicted with distribution, and Rayleigh distribution well predicts wave height distribution in surf zone and after wave breaking. Analysis of test data has proposed a formula calculating wave breaking probability, and comparison with others' results has verified that this formula is more helpful in revealing characteristics of wave breaking.Moreover, transformation of wave spectra is qualitatively analyzed in this paper according to the test data, which has shown that wave spectra transforms slightly before breaking, and the peak value of wave spectra decreases greatly after breaking while wave energy increases in lower and higher frequency parts. |
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