Predicting Model Of Collar Roll Ease And Differences Between Top And Under Lapel Collar Based On The Fused Fabric Thickness

Lapel collar is one of the most widely used type of collar, which has a complex structureand therefore difficult to engrave. Consequently, garment enterprises widespread exist theproblem that there is low accuracy and no guarantee to the quality and other issues to making thestructure of lapel collar. The traditional method of the design of lapel collar’s structure wasbased on the experience of the users, and it is go against to the improvement of product quality.Therefore, it is high time for us to us to study the quantitative relationship between top and underof lapel collar with fabric performance, and then apply it to automatically play version of CADtechnology, for automatically generated model of the collar.The difference between top and under collar is the key parameter to the influence of lapelcollar’s model and quality, and it is decided by the thickness of fabric. The thickness of fabricshas the biggest value on the differences between top and under collar. Additionally, in the actualproduction, lapel collar should be the compatible adhesive backing, that has the appropriate dressbetter results. Therefore, Commonly-used outwear fabrics were chosen to test the thickness offabric with and without interlining. The lapel roll ease of under collar was tested with slash andspread method. The differences between top and under of lapel collar, including outer edge easeof top collar, roll line ease of top collar and the ease added to allow the outer edge of top collarhiding to the under collar, were tested. The relationship between fused fabric thickness and lapelroll ease, differences of top and under collar were discussed, and the predicting models wasapplied to the existing apparel CAD automatic plate system. The research results are follows:(1) Proposed the index system used to describe the differences between top and undercollar and the measurement methods for determine differences between top and under collar, andverified the repeat ability of the test method through error analysis.(2) By experimental design and verification, establish the lapel loose volume based on thethickness of the fabric adhesive and a prediction model for differences between top and undercollar. Moreover, three new fabrics were chosen to test the model by comparing the calculatingresult with the testing result, showing that the established model of collar roll ease anddifferences between top and under of lapel collar has good predicting effect since the resultbased on predicting model is basically coincide with the testing result. (3) Forecasting model was applied to the existing apparel CAD automatic system, byestablishing model parameter setting and implementation model of the lapel collar automaticallygenerated quickly.The research findings can provide the theoretical base for developing lapel collar patternsrapidly and accurately, and provide thinking for implementing model of the lapel collarautomatically generated based on the fused fabric thickness.