Design And Development Of New Chemical Fiber/Silk Multicomponent Compound Fabric

As wonderful work in traditional textile industry of our country, silk is favored byconsumers because of its soft waxy handle, elegant sense, good skin-touch and uniquepearly luster. But disadvantages of traditional silk fabrics such as poor color fastness, easypollution and shrivel make it difficult to care, thus affecting its market demand. Therefore,it’s very important to introduce new material and technology in silk industry, design anddevelopment of its high-performance multicomponent fabrics is worthy of further study.In this paper, silk, PTT and Outlast chemical fibers were used as raw materials,28new chemical fiber/silk multicomponent compound fabrics of two series were designedand weaved, and do evaluation and test of fabric style, shape preservation, thermal control,permeability and pilling resistance, study effects of the structural parameters and materialcomponent on the style and properties of the fabrics preliminary.Style and properties of PTT/silk mixed fabricCompared with the silk fabrics, PTT/silk mixed fabrics’ shape preservation (creaserecovery and tensile resilience) obviously increases, pilling resistance also increases, airand moisture permeability not to decline, suppleness and fullness to be better, stiffness,flatness, smoothness, scroopy handle and drape to be worse.Increase the content of PTT fiber, fullness and tensile resilience of mixed fabric rise,but smoothness, scroopy handle and permeability decrease. Smoothness, permeability andshape preservation of PTT/silk mixed twill were superior to plain. Increase weft yarn lineardensity appropriately can improve fabrics’crease recovery. PTT/silk mixed crepe’s scroopyhandle, flatness and drape is higher than that of pure silk crepe, and the more apparent ofcrepe effect, fabrics’smoothness, permeability and tensile resilience the better.Style and properties of PTT/silk blended fabricCompared with pure silk fabrics, PTT/silk blended fabrics’ shape preservation andsoftness increase, smoothness, fullness, drape, permeability and pilling resistance decrease.In variant weft density fabrics,21#PTT/silk blended fabric’s stiffness is the minimum, and smoothness and fullness the maximum. Increase weft density can improve fabrics’tensile resilience, but drape, crease recovery and permeability decrease. Stiffness, drape,tensile resilience and pilling resistance of blended fabric change from large to small in theorder of plain, twill, broken twill, crease recovery and permeability change the oppositeway, smoothness and fullness in the order of twill, broken twill, plain.Style and properties of Outlast/silk blended fabricOutlast/silk blended fabric has obvious thermal control ability, but its handle, drapeand permeability were lower than that of pure silk fabrics.Weft density increases, stiffness, fullness, drape, thermal control and pilling resistanceincrease, smoothness and permeability decrease. Outlast/silk blended fabrics’ stiffness,drape and pilling resistance change from large to small in the order of plain, twill, brokentwill too, smoothness, fullness, thermal control and permeability change the opposite way.Style and properties of PTT/Outlast/silk compound fabric in comparison withblended fabricThermal control ability of PTT/Outlast/silk compound fabric is not obvious, moisturepermeability the worst, shape preservation inferior to PTT/silk blended fabric, and pillingresistance between two series of blended fabrics. The higher of the silk content, the worsethe fabrics’ drape gets, the better the air permeability, and handle of plain and broken twillfabric increase. Effects of weave structure on compound and blended fabrics’ style andwearing performance are basically the same.