A Study On The Structure Of Classical Chinese Clothes Of The Han Nationality In The Late Qing Dynasty

The paper takes the typical Chinese dress structure of middle class in Han Nationality at the end of the Qing dynasty as the main object of study. According to the above principle and cooperated with Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology Museum of Ethnic Costumes, eight typical long gowns of this period were selected as the specimen from there, and their cloth covers, linings, hems and other structures were surveyed and the resorted. Through gathering, recording and analyzing the total information data of defective pattern and decomposition map and from the perspective of clothing structure, the clothing surface texture shape, decoration objective motive and cultural password were exploded. And by duplicating and researching partial material objects, the scientific information of classical clothing expressed by traditional material and the technology was excavated, which is at least a supplement to the traditional clothing culture theory that takes metaphysical as the mainstream.Therefore, adopting the real diagnosis method, it does some detailed structure study of black circular tapestry satin riding jacket and the blue gloomy flowered silk pulling the sleeve gown at the end of Qing and it also analyzes and discusses the real motive behind clothing structure. It classifies six typical long unlined gowns into three groups according to different material, such as hemp, cotton and silk. And the above three kind of materials were studied comparatively. And the three kinds of material objects and their same types were researched by critic study.The thrifty consciousness and entire protection of material can almost be interpreted with the feeling of awe. To further experience this kind of time will which displayed by the clothing, black circular tapestry satin riding jacket, the blue gloomy flowered silk pulling the sleeve gown and the blue khaddar circular neckline with the black side tilted front feminine coat were selected as three specimens to conduct the duplication research. It does some real record, practice and inquisition of classical Chinese dress in the Qing dynasty from the angle of structure, and it also confirmed the"study of the nature of things"which is different from the old study which takes traditional costume culture and human characteristic as the leading factor. This dissertation is a beneficial exploration of to the question of whether using positivistic method to study ancient human phenomenon is nearer to the true result.