| That wave breaks and deforms is a common phenomenon which have been studied widely. The mechanism of wave deformation plays an important role in wave loads on structure, sediment transportation in coast and in harbor and contamination diffusion. So it is significant to study it.In this thesis, numerical simulation is a main way to try to study the mechanism of wave deforming, with the help of experiments.At first, a 2-D finite difference method (FEM.) is developed to solve N-S equation. If a wave-making boundary is added to this solver, it can be used to simulate wave motion. A two-order way, PLIC-VOF, which is based on SOLA-VOF, a one-order way, is adopted to trace free surface of waves and was proved to be effective.Many experiments were finished firstly to study wave motion on a slope, and then numerical simulation begins. After comparing the results of wave height between experiments and computation, great consistency is found. And numerical simulation can show the alteration of the wave height and velocity. By the way, by using numerical simulation, a wave transporting over a steep step is studied.In order to study the mechanism of wave deformation, Wave-induced vortices around a submerged breakwater are simulated. Based on the relationship of vortices and energy in different wave periods, wavelengths and the heights of a submerged breakwater, some useful conclusions are found. |