| With the development of science and technology, the improvement of living standard and the development of clothing culture, the pursuit of the clothing comfort, beauty, environmental friendly, and even health care and so on has become fashionable. Especially when the life pace of modern urban consumer grows fast, the demand for easy-care of the clothing is highlighted. Also high-end shirts and pants need to be shrink-proof, anti-wrinkle, easy care and flexible. Cotton is a natural fiber with good moisture permeability and comfort, etc., so it is an important group in clothing consumption. However, the poor elasticity, easy creasing and shrinkage after washing can not satisfy the increasing requirements of maintenance. Shirt is in great demand in apparel, whose consumption is differentiating. Also high quality cotton shirts have become more and more thin. This fabric must be woven by especially high count yarn, even the super high count yarn.In the cotton spinning process, the high count yarn usually refers to that whose linear density is below 7.3tex while the super high count yarn is usually below 2.9tex. The spinning technique of super high count yam is very difficult due to fewer fibers in its cross-section. At present, the development of the super high count yarn adopts the carrier spinning technology which produces yarns by blending water-soluble fiber with cotton fiber or other fibers together or compounding yarns together and then removes the soluble fiber to achieve light and thin or fluffy and soft effect in the fabric.The physical indicators'controlling range of the raw material is proposed in this paper by analyzing the technical bottleneck of the super high count yarn that is more than 300s. Then the feasibility of short spinning process for super high count yarn is discussed; the corresponding spinning process line is formulated and the process of each sequence is optimized in the end. As the yarn structure design is an important segment in super high count yarn carrier spinning technique, a ply yarn structure being suitable for light and thin elastic yarn-dyed fabric was obtained by theoretical analysis and experimental studies of doubling, dissolving the water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol fiber (PVA) and weaving.There are few reports about dissolving the water-soluble PVA yarn to obtain light and thin and compact effect for fabric. The feasibility of dissolving the water-soluble PVA yarn and process line is discussed in this paper and loose package winding process is optimized by orthogonal experiment method. The production status of dying and weaving of ply yarns of different twists and the quality of the semi-finished products is tested in the end.Finally, results were got as follows: (1) The technical route of carrier spinning and short fiber blending to manufacture super high count yarn of Xinjiang long-staple cotton that is more than 300s is feasible.(2) Combing the fiber by "Double comb" before cotton mixing is an important technical step to develop super high count yarn. In this way the requirement of 30%noil can be achieved and the soft combing is easy to carry out, as a result, the damage of the fiber and neps can be reduced.(3) In choosing raw material of super high count yarn, the key is to control fiber fineness, length and strength. Short fiber rate, immature fiber's content, neps and impurities and harmful defects should also be controlled in yarns for high-end yarn-dyed shirt clothing.(4) While spinning super high count yarn by long-staple yarn, the "more-drop more-remove, light ration, low-speed, small tension, small package, smooth passage" process principles should be used because the sequence of cleaning, carding and combing emphasize soft.(5) It was found that yarn structure of strong twisting single yarn, ply yarn of three plies and same twisting can satisfy the process requirements of the follow-up sequences of dying and weaving after dissolving water-soluble PVA. The fabric woven by these yarns have a good elasticity and body. When the yarn's twisting ratio is between 0.5 and 0.8, the ply yarn strength is better. When the twist of the three plied yarn of JC/V50/50150sis 100 twist·(10cm) -1 or so, its strength of the yarn before and after dissolving water-soluble PVA is better and its dyed yarn has a good weaving ability.(6) The winding density has more impact on the PVA residual rate than winding thickness in loose package dissolving. Taking into consideration of the PVA residual rate and the forming of the package, the winding density of JC/V50/50150s/3 yarn carried with water-soluble PVA is designed to be 0.30 g■cm-1,with the winding thickness being 2.5cm.(7) The dissolving process of the water-soluble PVA of strong twisting yarn is that increase the temperature at different rates in different stage and then wash in hot water and cold water for several times. After that the PVA is mostly dissolved, the damage caused to the yarn is allowed and there is no adhesion in the follow-up sequence of unwinding. |
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