| bserved wave evolution across the surf and swash zones is well predicted by a numerical model based on the 1-dimensional nonlinear shallow water equations with bore dissipation and bottom friction. Wave-induced pressure fluctuations and orbital velocities were measured with bottom mounted sensors deployed on 3 natural beaches (a steep concave-up beach, a gently-sloped approximately planar beach and a beach with an approximately flat terrace adjacent to a steep foreshore). Run-up was measured with vertically stacked wires supported parallel to and above the beach face at elevations of 5, 10, 15, 20, and 25 cm. Each run-up wire yields time series of the most shoreward location where the water depth exceeds the wire elevation. The model is initialized with time series of sea-surface elevation and cross-shore velocity observed at the most offshore sensors (located between 50 120 m from the mean shoreline in mean water depths 80-210 cm).;In particular, variations of wave spectra and shape (e.g., wave skewness) across the surf and swash zones, are well predicted by the numerical model. Consistent with previous studies, at sea-swell frequencies (here... |
