| Time series and the power spectral distributions of relative sea levels are analyzed at selected tide-gauge stations in the western and central North Pacific between equator and about 30;Long-term trend of relative sea-level rise during the past several decades (+1 to +5 cm/decade at most of the tide-gauge stations) is primarily affected by the local tectonism such as volcanic loading, plate movement and reef evolution, and subduction at the plate boundaries. Continual volcanic loading at Kilauea, Hawaii results in consequential subsidence of the Hawaiian Islands. Secondary reason for sea-level rise is the thermal expansion of sea surface waters due to global warming by increasing greenhouse gases, which may be potentially more significant in the near future.;Interannual sea-level fluctuations, associated with ENSO (El Nino Southern Oscillation) phenomena, seem to be the primary factor to cause serious beach erosion (up to 10 times the long-term trend). Mean annual cycle of sea level (H ;Shore-term change of beach profiles is basically caused by incoming wave conditions as well as sea-level height, sediment characteristics, and underlying geology. Simulations by a cross-shore sediment transport model show that higher waves result in faster offshore transport and deeper depth of active profile change, and that beach recovery process is usually much slower than the erosion process, especially after a storm surge. Deep erosion during a storm surge cannot be recovered for much longer duration by mild post-storm waves, but may be partly recovered by non-breaking long waves such as longer-period swells. |
