| This dissertation research explores the making of organic cotton materially and socially, at three field sites in Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh (central), India, and California's San Joaquin Valley. It examines why and how a reinvigorated organic cotton farming practice has taken root in those regions, despite the overwhelming economic, political, and social pressures that propel modern, chemical-based agriculture forward. As a material practice, organic cotton production encompasses a system of farm procedures, inputs, handling and labeling requirements, regulatory standards, and inspection mechanisms designed to certify the authenticity of organically grown cotton. As a socially constructed “green product,” organic cotton supplies an environmentally conscious market niche of Western consumers committed to using their purchasing power to support organic agriculture.; Since cotton's use-value is realized only after it has been processed into a commodity, I examine collaborations formed between farmers and clothing companies to examine the multi-layered processes of technological, social, and environmental changes that accompanied the transition to organic farming, and the production of certified organic cotton. I also examine efforts by some organic clothing companies to incorporate fair trade ideals and practices into the production and exchange relations associated with organic production.; In my dissertation, I argue the following four major points. First, multiple meanings of “organic” exist and they continue to evolve along with organic farming practices, commodity production systems, government regulations, and certification requirements. Second, although national governments have not participated in the development of organic farming for most of the twentieth century, farmers, industrialists, and non-governmental organizations (NGOs) have demanded that they take a more active role in the legitimation and certification of organic productions systems. Third, farmers more readily convert to organic cotton, farming when presented with a system of benefits and safeguards to assure them that they will accrue minimal risks during conversion. Fourth, NGO collaborations with industry, agro-scientists, and governments have proven essential to the development, marketing, and authentication of organic cotton farming and commodity production systems. I conclude with a list of recommendations to facilitate organic cotton production expansion at the farm and commodity production levels. |
