| Wool is one of the most important fibers in the textile industry. However, surface fuzzing and pilling of wool products in wearing and washing process is the negative phenomenon. Therefore, this paper investigates the effect of fiber morphology and scale value on the fuzzing and pilling of wool fabric, explores the fuzzing and pilling mechanism, and studies the effect of the wool surface scales characteristics and friction on fuzzing and pilling, also the evaluation criterion and mechanism of action of wool surface physics and chemistry treatment are put forward.The fuzzing and pilling mechanism and fiber abrasion fatigue were given through the actual observation in the process of friction using SEM (scanning electron microscopy).The fuzz was led to pulling and fatigue fracture caused by loop hairiness and entangled end hairs (quasi loop hairiness). The fiber crimp was the main mechanism for form the loop or quasi loop hairs. The main form was bending fatigue failure, fibril protruding at random scattered shape, accounting for approximately70～80%, twisting fatigue failure of the fiber at twisted shape. The compound fibrillated end existed on the surface of fabric in the presence of bending and torsion fatigue. The hairiness pulling and fatigue failure were consistent in fuzzing and pilling process, although pulling action was stronger when the pills were pulled off, causing the longer fibrillated end, finer splitting fibrils extended more disorderly.Through the different wool fibers and their corresponding knitted fabrics pilling experiments, it can be concluded that the scale height of CSH of the wool fiber surface edge and fiber length and fineness are correlated positively, negatively with DFE. The bigger the crimp rate is, the worse the pilling resistance. The fabric made of small bending rigidity is liable to pilling. Coarse fiber fabric in medium twist has the maximum of hairiness value, and has fewer pills at low twist and fewer pills weight. Increased twist will reduce pilling to some extent, but there exists a critical twist. For the fine fiber, it is disadvantageous to increase the yarn twist so as to promote their fabric pilling. Length changes have no significant effect on the number of pills and the quality of a single pill in medium fineness fiber fabric.And for the same fiber, the fuzzing and pilling of untreated, chlorinated and oxidized wool knitted fabrics were compared with frictional coefficients measured by capstan method, surface modification observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), the surface roughness and the scale height assessed by atomic force microscopy (AFM), and hairiness imaged on the three-dimensional rotational microscopy. The pilling experiments of the knitted fabrics were conducted by1CI pilling-box method. Results showed that some scales on the oxidized fiber surface were partially cleaved and some grooves generated. With oxidization treatment, the remainder anti-and with-scale of friction coefficient increase with decreasing the thickness of scales and the yarn hairiness. There is good correlation between the result of AFM and the change in frictional coefficients. The pilling grade of knitted fabric comprised of oxidization wool is3.5. It is postulated that the surface topography, the greater remainder of anti-and with-scale frictional coefficient of oxidized wool fibers and surface hairs of corresponding yarns may limit the ability of those surface fibers to form fuzz and of those fuzz for pill formation.Based on pretreatment with hydrogen peroxide and ozone/oxygen bubbles in water bath treatment, wool fiber was modified using ecologically acceptable ozone-assisted treatment (ECO). Chemical and mechanical analysis of the treated samples compared with the untreated, Basolan(?)88and Kroy-resin treated ones are reported. SEM results show that the crimp was generated and some scales were partially cleaved on the surface of ECO treated wool fibers. Fourier transforms infrared spectra (FTIR) results suggest the absorbency and the oxidation of disulfide bonds increased after the ECO treatment, especially at1024cm-1. The crystallinity of the treated wool fiber slightly increased based on the X-ray results. The friction properties of wool fiber samples were also tested. The pilling comparative experiments of the corresponding knitted fabrics were conducted with Martindale fuzzing-pilling and abrasion meter. The pilling grade of knitted fabric comprised of ECO-treated fibers is3.8for5000abrasion cycles. It is postulated that the surface morphology and physical properties of fibers and the mechanical properties of corresponding yarns of ECO-treatment may resist pilling and make pills pull-off.A three-step plasma treatment, including surface activation with argon, surface functionalization with oxygen and then thin film deposition using a pulsed plasma polymerization of hexamethyldisiloxane (HMDSO), was used in low-pressure plasma to improve the pilling resistance of knitted wool fabric. The pilling propensity of the treated samples was investigated, compared with those untreated, argon and oxygen treated, and argon and oxygen plasma treated followed by polymerization of HMDSO with continuous wave plasma polymerization of HMDSO. With the three-step treatment, a pilling grade of4was achieved for the treated wool fabric, while that of untreated and other plasma treated was2and3, respectively. For the three-step plasma treated sample, a uniform HMDSO polymer coating of300nm thickness was obtained; X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) showed the presence of silicone element, and FTIR confirmed the chemical structure of the coating. No apparent differences were found in the whiteness index between the treated and untreated wool knits, but there was deterioration in the bursting strength and handle of the plasma-treated wool samples.The numbers and the diameter of pills were found decreased in compact spinning system produced by German ZINSER800Aircomtex compact spinning equipment. The surface scale of wool fiber was badly damaged with the color deepening and the radial expansion happened in wool fiber due to the cortical cells expansion with dyeing time prolonged, which resulted in the fibers rough increased and the surface scales of wool fiber dyed in black tilted up to maximum, and badly damaged. Meanwhile, the value of pH on fiber also impacted the hairiness. In addition, we obtained the pilling mathematical model from the analysis of four different colors of wool knitted fabric pilling process.Finally, we designed two sets of in situ measurement devices for the yarn and the fabric including the hairiness length, pills shape and diameter, pills pulling force, the weight of the worn material. They are online, fast, accurate, objective, and suitable for industrial application of the evaluating method, to overcome such evaluation technology in defect and subjective evaluation. |
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