The Study Of Costumes Appeared On Mural Paintings Of Dunhuang Grottoes At Tang Dynasty

Dunhuang grottoes have very complete ancient frescoes-gathering,because of its integrality and continuity,which became very important historical materials for costume history research.The thesis employed mural paintings of Dunhuang grottoes as main materials,combining with other images and documents from Tang dynasty or late dynasties,to study on costume and social-system of costume at Tang dynasty.Instead of the whole costume history of Tang dynasty,the point of the thesis is to study on the parts that nobody had studied on,or incompletely studied on,or had inaccurate conclusions by former researchers.The thesis includes three parts:First part,defined research objects and aims which include:1)Instead of the whole costume history of Tang dynasty,the aim of the thesis is to discuss on costumes which appeared in the mural paintings of Dunhuang grottoes,and trying to discover the real state of costume at Tang dynasty by a set of methods of reading images.2)Supplied some new materials for former researches in the field,which include:firstly,supplied more evidences for former studies;secondly,study on costumes that nobody had studied on;thirdly, provided opinions for researches on costumes that had no conclusion temporarily;fourthly, corrected some mistakes of former studies.This part also discussed how to apply image to costume history research.This part discussed on how to apply the mural paintings of Dunhuang grottoes to costume history research of Tang dynasty.Original creations in the part included:1)discussed systemically on methods that how to apply images to costume history research;2)Summarized the methods that formers how to apply images to costume history research.Story Painting,sutra painting and Buddhism history painting in Dunhuang grottoes had been chosen as main object for the study on mundane costumes of Tang dynasty.The conclusion based on other frescoes and relics excavated from Shanxi province and Xinjiang Province,and history documents.Second part,summarized costume documents of Tang dynasty that had been recorded from Tang dynasty to Qing dynasty,and results of costume history research of Tang dynasty,and also summarized images and relic that concerned costume of Tang dynasty.Most history books and cyclopedias that had been compiled from Tang dynasty to Qing dynasty would record past costume system,some important of them included:Beitang Excerption(北堂书钞),Six Corpus Juries of Tang Dynasty(唐六典),General Institution(通典),Former History of Tang Dynasty(旧唐书),Later History of Tang Dynasty(新唐书), TaiPing YuLan(太平御览),CeFu YuanGui(册府元龟),ZiZhi TongJIan(资治通鉴),Studies on All Documents(文献通考),Talking about Fu(说郛),All Articles of Tang Dynasty(全唐文), etc.Official history seldom recorded folk costume,but notes and fictions at Tang dynasty and Song dynasty would depict some folk costumes.All Poems at Tang Dynasty(全唐诗), compiled at Qing dynasty,also included plenty of words about costume of Tang dynasty. Systemically costume history research started from 20s' last century,and showed climax at 70s' and 80s' that the symbol is publishing of Studies on Chinese Ancient Costume written by SHENG Congwen,and The Costume History of China written by ZHOU Xibao.Between 50s' to the beginning of 80s',a plenty of relics and frescoes in tombs of Tang dynasty were discovered,which stimulated costume history research.After 90s',several dozens of theses were published,which showed the costume history research of Tang dynasty has certain scale.Donghua university cooperated with Dunhuang academy to study on costume appeared in frescoes recent years,which made frescoes of Dunhuang grottoes and costume history research more closely.Third part,discussed on the costume history of Tang dynasty,and also included two parts:firstly,studied on costumes appeared on mural paintings of Dunhuang grottoes. secondly,discussed main features of costume at Tang dynasty based on the discussion fore-mentioned and the ancient documents.1.Studied on costume of Tang dynasty appeared in mural paintings of Dunhuang grottoes,which include men's costume,women's costume,exotic costume,common people and servant's costume.Men's costume and women's costume mainly concerned King,official and aristocrat.The original creations of this part includes:1)Provided more evidences,including documents that former researchers hadn't recited,to former studies. Especially,the words depicted costumes from All Poems at Tang dynasty were cited and classified.2)Drew illustrates and structure-panting of costumes,illustrated costume clearer, for example,compared Ku-Zhe of Tang dynasty with that of the previous dynasty by costumes illustrates at Chapter 4-2-4.3)Brought forward questions about costume that has no answer yet.For example,if there were any difference between Dianchai Li dress(细钗礼衣)and Dianchai Tan dress(细钗襢衣)? How Sao-Tou(搔头)and Cui-qiao(翠翘)looks like which were depicted in poems of Tang Dynasty? 4)listed costumes appeared in different documents,for example,form of women's full dress at Tang dynasty,form of emperor's Mian-fu(冕服),form of Fu-tou,etc.5)The same kind costume images were listed according to its time to study changes of costume at different periods,for example,pictures of changes of Ru(襦),pictures of changes of head ornament.The part of men's costume discussed on Mianfu(冕服),Tongtian cap(通天冠),official uniform(具服),Chang-fu(常服),black Jie-ze(黑介帻)and so on.1)Mian-fu was emperor and official's dress suit for the most formal occasion.Emperor's mian-fu in Vimalakirti Sutra painting called Gun-mian,but its some parts were different from document record which differences include number of Liu(旒),design on Fu(韨),jade sword(玉具剑),etc. Under the Mian board may be Tongtian hat(通天冠),black Jie-ze(黑介帻)and gold Bo-shan(金博山).2)The emperor's hat of Sutra Sutra painting in the 25^thof Yulin grottoes was Tongtian hat.3)Official's uniform called Ju-fu after Yonghui(year name of emperor Gaozong,AD 650)at Tang dynasty.Official had Jinxian hat,and under the hat was black Jie-ze(黑介帻).4)Costume of Pingjin-Ze(平巾帻)was one of official uniforms and generally wore at Tang dynasty.Different colors and ornament material for different ranks. Costume of Pingjin-Ze was made up of Pingjin-Ze,Ku-zhe(袴褶),Qi-liang belt(起梁带), boot,etc.In addition,officers must wear Liang-Dang(裲裆)and Teng-She(螣蛇)when they took part in guard of honor.The costume of Pingjin-Ze was used as uniform in army,also used as sportswear for riding horse in Tang dynasty.5)Chang-fu(常服)was casual clothes at Tang dynasty which made up of Fu-tou(幞头),Lan robe(襴衫),belt and boot.A cloth with four legs wrapped Jin-zi to shaped Fu-tou.Two legs of Fu-tou dropped down behind head.Some donor figures in frescoes of terminal Tang dynasty showed that the two legs of Fu-tou were turn up,but there were no evidence showed their up or down had any connection with rank.Lan were a piece of cloth sewed on the bottom of robe,and its color corresponded to rank.Man's half-sleeves(半袖)might wore inside as underwear.The part of women's costume discussed on Ru(襦),skirt,half-sleeve(半袖),Pei(帔),full dress(礼衣),masculine style dress(丈夫袖衫),etc.1)Women's Chang-fu in Tang dynasty were mainly made up of Ru(襦),skirt,half-sleeve(半袖)and Pei(帔).2)Women wore Ru with narrow sleeves and long skirt at the first stage of Tang dynasty(AD 618-704), which showed slim shape.Strip-printed skirt was also fashionable at the period.From the second stage(AD 705-781),women's dress showed trend of luxury and Ru,skirt became broader.The trend lasted to the end of Tang dynasty.3)Half-sleeve had been worn as outer-wear at the first stage,but it had been worn under Ru from the second stage to the last stage(AD 848-906).4)Pi-Bo(披帛)should be called Pei or Jin-Pei(巾帔)in Tang dynasty,and it had more than ten types to be used.Three types were common in frescoes at all period of Tang dynasty.Pei showed trend that became broader after the second stage.5) Masculine style dress was one of women's popular costumes at Tang dynasty,but most figures in the dress were lady's-maid which appeared in frescoes from the second stage to the end of Tang dynasty.6)Tiao-tuo(条脱)was women's arm decoration at Tang dynasty, which was from other countries.Women's hairstyle was high and with less decoration on it at first stage of Tang dynasty.From the second stage to the last stage,hairstyle became plump and lower,but with a lot of decoration on it.Several of combs on hair was very popular at the third stage(AD 781-848)and the last stage.The part of exotic costume discussed on aliens and their dress in Vimalakirti Sutra painting(维摩诘经变).1)Peaked cap had been used at West Region from remote antiquity. Some of peaked caps were with round top and fur decorated around it.The figure with peaked cap on head in Vimalakirti Sutra painting might be Persian.2)The figure with two-feathers-hat on head in Vimalakirti Sutra painting was Korean.3)The figure with three-forks-hat or flower-shape-hat on head in Vimalakirti Sutra painting was Hui-hu(回鹘) aristocrat,for the reason of these figures were coincident with the figures in frescoes of Bozikelike(伯孜克里克)grottoes.Most Hui-hu aristocrat's robes were decorated with band and with round collar.4)Tu-bo people were placed at the front of the queue in Vimalakirti Sutra painting at the third stage of Tang dynasty.Tu-bo aristocrats' robes were right-piece-covered collar,and sleeves end dropped to ankle.Red band were wrapped their head as cap.5)The figure appeared at right-bottom in Vimalakirti Sutra painting of 103^rd Dunhuang grotto was a Qiu-ci(龟兹)man.His short hair was coincident with that in Zhi-gong painting(职贡图),and his lapel robe was coincident with that in frescoes of Kezier(克孜尔)grottoes.The part of common people and servant's costume discussed on Ku-zhe(袴褶),Que-ku robe(缺袴衫),He garment(褐衣)。Etc.1)Ku-zhe was kind of costume that could be used by high classes and common people,but official's Ku-zhe was broad sleeve and trouser style, and common peoples' was narrow and fit.The color of most common people's Ku-zhe in frescoes was cloudy colors,such as brown,dust color or sage green and so on.2)Que-ku robe was a kind of robe with slits at two sides,but Lan robe without the slits.Que-ku robe was common people's casual clothes and soldier's clothes.Common people could not be admitted to use damask silk.Common people also pulled up Fu-tou on head with Que-ku robe or Lan robe.3)The document showed that common person in white,butcher in black, soldier in yellow at early Tang dynasty.Common people was forbidden in yellow after Wude(year name of emperor Gaozu,AD 618)period,and their decoration only made of copper or iron.4)Short coat made of coarse was called He clothes worn by common people and gentleman.2.To avoid one-side study,Ⅰconcluded four important features of costumes at Tang dynasty mainly based on document and former discussion.1)Protocol regulation of costumes at Tang dynasty were clear.There was strict rule about how to wear full dress and casual clothing.Considered convenience,some casual clothing could be used at formal occasion.2)Costume as the symbol to show hierarchy was enhanced.Governor had amended costume system for several times to enforce rank-symbol,and appeared institution of awarding purple and crimson to ones who made contributions.There was institution of borrowing colors at Tang dynasty,but the phenomena of arrogating higher-rank-color were frequent.3)Exotic costume.The whole Tang dynasty had opening attitude to alien culture,and its costume showed exotic ethos and open that never like that before.Most costume at Tang dynasty were exotic or changed from alien costume.4) Extravagant ethos spread from royal court to public.Developed economy and textile technology put the ethos forward directly.Costume had showed extremely luxury look from prosperous period of Tang dynasty to the end of Tang dynasty.Finally,appendix summarized document about costume of Tang dynasty including appellations of costumes of Tang dynasty,memorabilia of costume at Tang dynasty,verses depicted about female's adornment in All Poems of Tang Dynasty.