Research On Collar 3D Construction Digital Technology Based On Neck Characteristics

When Humanity enters the digital information age in the 21st century, every walk of life has undergone varying degrees of change, daily life styles have followed the change. Apparel industry in the world has also facing a revolution. Following the research and practical application in the clothing digital technology, it would be unprecedented change in apparel design and manufacture, enterprise management and marketing, consumer purchases and consumption styles, etc. There is an increasing relationship among designers, manufacturers and consumers.Clothing digital is a kind of multidisciplinary high-technology based on the theoretical basis of Computer Graphics, depended on computer hardware and software technology, which extracts and analyses three-dimensional data of the body, which collects, consolidates, stores and uses the information in the process of apparel design, manufacture and marketing, clothing equipment operation and control, clothing enterprises management. Clothing Digital System includes apparel technology research and development digital system, apparel design and production digital system, garment business process management digital system, etc. In this paper, the key questions and innovations were followed:(1)Research on neck morphological characteristicsIt researched neck morphological characteristics based on the clothing body ergonomics. It was experimented neck detail measure by 3D TC2 body scanner and Martin's anthropometer. It obtained five critical factors of neck characteristic by SPSS which used principal components factor analysis with varimax rotation, that was neck length factor, neck width factor, thickness factor, sagittal plane angle factor and coronal plane angle factor. Then it built a new neck sizing system for Chinese young women by K-means clustering, which was expressed as NG/NWTR/NGLR. It could obtain the neck root section, girth and length characters, etc, based on the new sizing system. For example, it could divide the necks of people owed the same neck girth into different categories that could provide the better and more precise neck shapes which could meet the requirement of fitting collar of individual apparel. It is benefit to building the neck part of an individual virtual model and the MTM pattern design system.(2) Neck Mathematic ModelIt was built that customized neck model used three-dimensional data of personal neck instead of two-dimensional data. In this paper, it was constructed a mathematical neck model by parametric modeling method, which regarded neck root line and neck up line as spiral elliptic curve, established the curve equations by analytical geometry based on NW,NT and the neck characteristic points, calculated the spatial coordinates of the points on the curve, to create the three-dimensional neck mathematical model which could be adjustable, high degree of visual, to provide customized data of the human body for the three-dimensional collar model.(3) 3D Collar ModelAccording to the measured variables of neck and the design parameters of collar, it presented the details of building a MTM three-dimensional collar model theory, created the 3D basis Construction collar model based on the measurement data of human neck,more fitting the three-dimensional shape of individual neck. It was proposed the building method of 3D collar model, which changed the traditional collar design process, to get collar key points based on neck key points, combined with collar characteristic information, established the curve relations between the up, down, outer collar curves and neck shapes, the design parameters of collar, formed a triangular mesh model by the topological relations of the collar, got the three-dimensional models of stand collar, turned stand collar and lapel, more fitting the shape of-individual neck. It could get mesh models of the variational collars based on the mesh of base collars use the grid connection rules. (4) Clothing Collar Pattern Automatically GeneratedIt was tested that the material-properties of clothes using KES Fabric style testers, studied the relationship between the material properties of the physical fabric and the collar construction parameters by SPSS for data analysis. Through the analysis of the fabric performance factors, it got four main factors:the shear factor, the weft tensile factor, bending and thickness factor and the factor models of fabric properties. Through the relationship of collar construction parameters and fabric properties, it got six main factors, the former four factors are the same to the main factors of fabric properties, the latter two factors are collar construction factors: curvature and collar width, and got the relationship equations of collar construction parameters and fabric properties. Through the experiments of the relationship between the collar surface/lining and fabric properties, it got the equations of the collar surface/lining and fabric performance. Finally,3D model is mapped into a flat collar patterns by computer graphics and triangular surface flattening algorithm. The study is truly great significance for the final three-dimensional garment construction design.(5) Clothing 3D-2D Construction System DevelopmentIt was developed that Clothing 3D-2D Construction Automatic Generation Software System by using VC++and OpenGL consists of six modules:①neck data module,②neck shape discrimination module, ③neck model generation module,④Fabric performance and collar design module,⑤3D collar model creating module,⑥two-dimensional collar patterns automatic generation module. Finally, collars were sewed based on the automatic patterns and the results were good. In these studies, it can be realized using the computer automatically generates individual collar model, automatic generation of process patterns based on personal neck data. It explores a feasibility of Apparel EMTM.The background of this dissertation is the research item of Shanghai Municipal Economic Commission——the practicability research on Hengyuanxiang Apparel EMTM QRS manufacture software system, which is a cooperative research project of Hengyuanxiang and Donghua University (2008～2010), the author is one of the major participants.