Digital Restoration And Innovative Design Practice Of Qing Dynasty Phoenix-skirts

This paper takes the phoenix-tailed skirt of the Qing dynasty as the object of study.From the artistic characteristics and cultural implications of the phoenix-tailed skirt,it compares the formal characteristics,wearing combinations,fabric techniques,color combinations and pattern characteristics of the phoenix-tailed skirt,analyzes the cultural background of the birth of the phoenix-tailed skirt in the feudal patriarchal society from the perspective of female gender,and tries to interpret the cultural connotation of the decorative patterns of the phoenix-tailed skirt from the semiotic perspective.The aim is to recover the most representative set of dresses consisting of a lapel gown,a horse-faced skirt and an embroidered striped phoenix-tail skirt,and to select the embroidered striped phoenix-tail skirt,which best represents the characteristics of the phoenix-tail skirt form,as the object of recovery.Through a search of public materials such as literature,museum digital repositories,and public auction information,we collected 39 photographs of phoenix-tailed dresses of different forms,patterns,and colors,and took into account their form,pattern details,wearing forms,conservation status,and the quality of the photographs taken,and finally selected a set of phoenix-tailed dresses from 1800 to 1850 sold by Augusta Auction Company in New York in 2018.The set has a typical embroidered striped phoenix-tailed skirt,with a bodice with a cloud-shoulder collar,and the ribbon of the bodice and the phoenix-tailed skirt are decorated with a large number of fine embroidery patterns and photographs of the pattern details,and the color scheme is well preserved.In the process of restoration,we used Marvelous Designer to simulate the structure and overlapping of the phoenix tail skirt,the horse-faced skirt,and the cloud-shoulder collar of the women’s coat,and we also used the 3D texturing software Substance 3D Sampler to create the embroidery pattern texture of the phoenix tail skirt and the cloud-shoulder collar of the women’s coat,so as to achieve the maximum digital restoration of the details.The restoration process was summarized in terms of difficulties and solutions,and the overall restoration effect and the restoration effect of pattern details were presented in detail.In the process of digital restoration,a large number of vector diagrams and patterns of phoenix-tail skirt,horse-faced skirt,and cloud-shoulder collar coat were drawn,and textures,3D models and 2D plates of embroidery patterns of phoenix-tail skirt and cloud-shoulder collar coat were produced,forming a series of digital assets of phoenix-tail skirt,which can be directly applied to the creation of content such as games,movies and meta-universe as digital assets of phoenix-tail skirt in the future.The research on the artistic features and cultural implications of the phoenix tail skirt and the results of the digital restoration practice directly constituted the inspiration for the innovative design,combining the features of the phoenix tail skirt such as shape,pattern and color with the current popular design elements and applying them flexibly in the design.She also completed the design of the butterfly pattern,pattern making and ready-to-wear production.