Researches And Practices On Development Of Weaving Technology From Picking Pattern By Hand To Small Pattern-Cards Jacquard

The ancient jacquard technology has a long history in China.The continuous developments and evolutions of the patterns formed by warp yarn and by weft yarn separately in ancient times have made great contributions to the development of textile technology in the world.In this thesis,the pattern,woven structure and weaving technology of ancient pattern fabrics by warp yarn and pattern fabrics by weft yarn are studied.By means of the simple jacquard loom,the multi-heddle and treadle loom and the low pattern-cards loom,the crafting practice of patterns is realized through recording patterns,analyzing process and weaving on machines.The developments of ancient techniques in pattern weaving went through the stages of simple picking pattern by hand,bamboo heddle with thread,picking pattern by hand basing on thread heddles,jacquard by multi-heddle and treadle,and jacquard by pattern-cards,etc.The interlacing points of warp and weft yarns are used to form a basic unit and then regular cycle arrangement is carried out to form a pattern.With the pursuit of complex and exquisite patterns and progresses in weaving tools,the fabric structure has changed from simple structure to the backed weave structure,and the roles of warp and weft yarns are divisided clearly,and the weaving efficiency has been improved continuously.Taking " Shang qi","Spaced warp qi","Floating pattern qi","Pagoda pattern warp brocade" and "geometric pattern twill" as examples,the process and the principle of jacquard weaving were analyzed from the simple structures to the reorganized structures in this thesis.According to the analysis,the structure of "Floating pattern qi" is a kind of immature structure which is transferred into the reorganized structure.When analyzing the process of picking pattern by hand basing on thread heddles,the commonly used two pieces of heddle controlling plain structure on the background are decomposed into four or more pieces of heddles according to certain rules,so that more changeable structure can be obtained at the bottom.Taking the "tower pattern brocade" and "geometric pattern twill" as examples,the jacquard technology was researched by means of the multi-heddle and treadle loom.The minimum number of heddles required for the pattern is obtained by geometrizing for the pattern.In ancient warp brocades,the number of heddles on the background is decided by the interweaving rule of weft and warp,and the number of pattern heddles is determined by the non-repetitive pattern.In low pattern-cards loom,the pattern information is stored in the arrangement of the pattern-cards,and no depending on the weaving process.When preparing for pattern-cards of weft brocade,the warp number in the pattern-card is determined by the number of warp grids in the single pattern repeat,and the weft number in pattern-card is determined by the number of grids and groups in weft.Finally,the imitation and reproduction for portion of the “ji” pattern in the weft brocade are realized.